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Trees with tales to tell – Himeville & Underberg
Text and Photography by Fatima Jakoet.
Source: The picturesque towns of Himeville and Underberg. This article was taken from the back issue of Getaway August 2010.
‘ You could be in and out of this area in three hours,’ Fatima Jakoet was told after asking if four days was enough to explore Himeville and Underberg.
But she discovered that simply admiring the scenery will set you back at least one day, so come with time on your hands.
Underberg is a small village in the Drakensberg foothills, with spectacular views of the mighty range. As you descend to the town, you’ll be welcomed by tree-lined streets against a backdrop of rugged peaks. Just five kilometres down the road, with a gorgeous row of oak trees leading up to it, is the even smaller town of Himeville, gateway to Sani Pass.
There are various versions to the history of these two picturesque towns, but the most popular is that Underberg grew around a store that was opened to serve the first settler farms in the frontier times of 1886. Although the town was well established, the government decided it wasn’t suitable to be the district centre because it was privately owned and was overlooked by a hill – making it defenceless if attacked.
So Himeville was chosen and was granted a magistrate in 1902. Rivalry arose between the two villages, aggravated five years later when a railway was built that ended at Underberg, not reaching Himeville.
A row of oak trees next to the road connecting the two towns is what eventually healed the rift. The trees were planted by locals when residents Kenneth and Mona Lund offered to give one to anyone willing to plant one. Rivalries were soon forgotten.
What to do
Admire art The Underberg Studio showcases South African art and features work by owners Lawrance and Catherine Brennon. Tel 033-701-2440, e-mail, website.
Do it yourself Take art lessons with Timothy van Vuuren. The first class is free; thereafter it’s R75 for three-hour classes. Tel 033-701-2183, e-mail, website.
The big cheese Underberg Cheesery at River Glen Farm offers a wide selection that ranges from cheddar to Parmesani (which is named after Sani Pass). Watch the cheese making process and buy samples to take home. Tel 033-701-1926, e-mail.
Get high Take a trip up Sani Pass with Rudi Botha of Underberg-based Kingdom in the Sky, which specialises in 4×4-adventures and Lesotho tours. The day tour includes a stop at Sani Top Chalet -at 2874 m it’s the highest pub in Africa. You’ll also enjoy local hospitality during a visit to a traditional Sotho village before heading back down the pass for a thrilling drive.
Warm clothes and pass-ports are essential. A day trip costs R460 a person in-cluding pickup in the area. Tel 072-981-3077, e-mail, website.
Fishing The trout fishing is said to be among the best in the country. You can fish at many of the dams and rivers in the area and a day permit (available at The Highlander or NUD Sports and Saddlery) is R120 a rod. Some B&Bs also have dams where guests can fish. Tel 033-701-2302, e-mail.
Bushman art and birding Join Stuart McLean of Birds and Beyond on his five to six-hour hike into the Ukhahlamba Drakensberg Park to see bushman paintings. He also offers natural history tours in the Southern Drakensberg. Tel 033-702-1761, e-mail, website.
Time to reflect Kenmo Lake is an ideal setting for a picnic, reading a book or just relaxing and taking in the beauty. A great time to see the lake is autumn, when the trees are shades of browns, reds and orange and the leaves form a golden carpet over the green grass.
Step back in time The Himeville Museum is housed in the last wagon fort built in South Africa, which later became a prison. When the prison closed, the historical society took over and the museum was opened in 1981. Displays feature vintage gadgets, bead work, agricultural machinery, armoury fossils and rock-art tracings. Curator Michael Clark has a wealth of information, so make time for a chat with him. Tel 033-702-1184.
Go pony trekking Khotso Horse Trails offers pony rides to the Drakensberg foothills and overnight treks in Lesotho. Beginners are welcome and more advanced riders can join an adventure trip that involves cattle roundups and a cross-country trek. A three-hour trail including lunch is R350. The two-night Lesotho trek is R900 a person a day. Tel 033-701-1502, e-mail.
Wet and wonderful Hire a tube at The Highlander in Underberg or contact Dundidit Tours for a place on a river trip that includes safety equipment, refreshments and transport. Tel 033-701-2405, e-mail.
Take a hike Walks range from two-kilometre gentle strolls to multi-day hikes. The mellow Jacob’s Ladder Trail follows the Lotheni River and leads to the namesake waterfall. If you want to hike Sani Pass, park at the border post and walk up. It’s eight kilometres each way (about three hours up and two hours down). The South African border post is open from 06h00 to 18h00.
Get on your bike Sani Spoors offers five scenic routes, including easy rides along the Mzimkulu River (three or seven kilometres) and forests with awesome views. Tel 033-701-1111, website. Mountain bikes and safety gear can also be hired at The Highlander.
Play Robin Hood If you stay at Amazian Mountain River Lodge just outside Underberg, you can try your skill at archery. Classes are also open to the public. Tel 082-444-4235.
Treat yourself The new wine gallery at Amazian Mountain Lodge has a selection of award-winning wines, delicious cold meats, fine imported chocolates and cheeses. Tel 082-444-4235.
Curious curios Speckled Hen sells bags, mugs, jewellery, hats and ornaments. Tel 033-701-2767. At Move On curio shop, Alex Kiguru makes and sells beaded jewellery and local art. Tel 082-831-7346. The Funky Cow has quirky chandeliers, antiques, jewellery and various crafty creations. Tel 083-654-4767. Village Vintage sells antiques and collectables. Tel 082-931-0844. Oak Tree Trading has beautiful glassware, decor, some framing and gifts. Tel 033-701-2619. Driftin has crafts, gifts and some clothing. Tel 033-701-1070.
Where to eat
The Grind Cafe makes good wood-fired pizzas and has a pub next door. Tel 033-701-1571.
Lemon Tree Bistro is a country-style restaurant with delicious meals and great cappuccino. The restaurant also has a bookstore and a shop that has preserves and other gifts. Open daily, but they don’t serve dinner on Mondays. You’ll find it at the clock tower. Tel 033-701-1589.
At the Duck and Dolittle, the kids can play and feed the animals on the farm while you enjoy breakfast or a light lunch. There’s also a wide range of toys, gifts and jewellery for sale. Open 09h00 to 16h00 daily, except Tuesdays. Tel 033-701-1176.
Enjoy a pub dinner at the Himeville Arms Hotel, where the fireplace will keep you lingering longer with the locals. Tel 033-702-1305.
Pucketty Farm Stall, up a short dirt road before you reach Underberg, sells a variety of preserves, rusks, wholesome homemade bread, clothing and gifts. Also check out the art gallery of works by local artists. Tel 033-701-1035.
Temptations serves light meals, with jewellery and clothing in an adjoining shop. Tel 033-701-1615.
The Moorcroft Manor Country Hotel offers light lunches and dinners. Booking essential. Tel 033-702-1967.
Mike’s Restaurant serves a hearty breakfast, as well as lunch and supper. It also has a bar. Tel 033-701-1565.
The Old Hatchery, overlooking a dam, offers lunch and dinner (bookings only). Tel 082-602-7020.
Where to stay
Cedar Garden B&B, set in manicured gardens, is a short walk from the main road in Underberg. From R225 a person a night for the self-catering cottage (sleeps six) and R310 a person a night in the en suite room. Tel 033-701-1153, website.
Albizia House B&B, in Himeville, has three en-suite bedrooms leading onto a patio overlooking the beautifully maintained grounds. R320 a person a night sharing. Tel 033-702-1837, website.
Amazian Mountain River Lodge offers luxury accommodation just outside Underberg. It’s secluded and has great views. R920 a person a night on a DB&B basis. Tel 082-444-4235.
Text and Photography by Fatima Jakoet. This article was taken from the back issue of Getaway August 2010.
More info on the town of Underberg | More info on the Drakensberg area |
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