Sun, Sand and Sweet Memories

Text: Pierre Potgieter. Article from the August 2013 issue of Getaway Magazine 2013.

Margate’s rhythm is a lazy one of seemingly endless days in the sun, sand between your toes and the pervasive smell of sunscreen.

It’s hard to forget a summer holiday in Margate – even autumn and winter getaways here are tinged with summer memories. Perhaps it’s because of its reputation as having one of South Africa’s ultimate bikini beaches or it could be the distinctive festive atmosphere and party habit that give the subtropical town its unmistakable character.

About 135 kilometres south of Durban, Margate is known for hosting big events and year-round good weather. Holidaymakers come not for silence, but for the lively vibe, bustling streets and shared sense of holiday on packed beaches. And the best thing about it? It’s well priced, making family holidays here a must.

December and Easter are the busiest times, but there’s a constant flow of visitors throughout the year. Holiday season starts with a flood of youngsters after the matric exams. They’re joined by their families over Christmas and New Year, and couples and pensioners arrive once schools have reopened to enjoy the South Coast at its best (between February and April the rainfall tapers off, while the long summer days continue).

After Easter, Harley enthusiasts pull into town in their thousands for the annual Africa Bike Week, and in June and July it’s the turn of fishermen, birders, photographers and divers when the so-called Biggest Shoal on Earth passes by during the annual Sardine Run.

Be it for a week or weekend, on the beach or on a bike, Margate is where the fun’s at.

Do This

Beaches. Sun, sand and swimming, Margate’s beaches are its main attractions and there are several to choose from. Although Margate Beach’s blue-flag status changes according to the Nkhongweni River’s water quality, it’s still the town’s most popular beach. Lifeguards are on duty all year, there’s protection by shark nets and facilities such as cafés, showers and bathrooms are close to the beach. It’s also a surfing hotspot and you don’t need a wetsuit to have a good time in the warm Indian Ocean. It has a merry atmosphere and entertainment such as live music and competitions during peak season. Sunset beach walks from here towards the neighbouring Manaba Beach are a treat. Ramsgate is the most relaxed and quiet of the beaches, with a beautiful lagoon ideal for paddleboat trips. Uvongo Beach is the perfect family beach (I recommend you hire a bodyboard from the beach café and enjoy long rides on its surf). Surfers love the break at St Michael’s on Sea, about four kilometres up the road from Margate Beach. All these beaches are safe for swimming.

Party. One of the reasons for Margate’s popularity is its festive atmosphere, and nowhere is this more evident than at one of the two nightclubs on Beach Road. Backline (tel 039-317-4358) or Koko’s (tel 083-675-0654).

Go-Carting.. Try to beat the best lap time of 12,06 seconds on Kart Freaks’ tarmac circuit. Costs R60 for 10 laps (drivers must be eight years and older). Tel 039-312-1514.

Golf. Also called The Golf Coast, there are several great courses close by. Southbroom (hosts of the Women’s Open, tel 039-316-6051) and Wild Coast Country Club (tel 039-305-2799) with sea and inland views. Reckon on roughly R230 and R280 green fees respectively for 18 holes.

Shop. Buy interesting shells and shell artwork at Natalie’s on Marine Drive. It’s been in the same spot for more than 60 years and has seashells from three oceans. Tel 039-312-0341.

Fishing.. Cast in from Margate’s renovated pier, a favourite spot among competitive and recreational fishermen.

Extreme Sports.. You’ll find all sorts of thrills within a 45-kilometre drive. The ziplines at Lake Eland Game Reserve (tel 039-687-0395) are popular, but my personal highlight is the Oribi Gorge Swing (tel 082-566-7424), the highest of its kind in the world and where grown men scream like four-year-old girls.

Day Trips. Picnic or hike in Skyline Nature Reserve (no entrance fee, tel 039-315-0112) in Uvongo. Butterfly Valley (tel 072-235-3688) is a fascinating outing for kids and parents, and you’ll encounter several rareties in the butterfly dome and curious-creatures section.

Uvongo Bird Park (Tel 039-317-4086) boasts a large variety of colourful, impressive and rare birds and children are allowed to feed some of them. Beaver Creek Coffee Estate (tel 039-311 -2315) outside Port Edward is a must for coffee lovers; it offers tours, tastings and a R15 bottomless coffee option on the café menu. Also try its famous liqueurs and visit between March and September to witness the harvest. Wild Coast Casino, about 36 kilometres south of Margate, is another popular daytrip destination. Wild Waves Water Park (tel 039- 305-4800) has several extreme waterslides and Waterworld (tel 039-305-3024) offers water sports on the Umtamvuna River (the riverboat sunset cruise is great).

Eat here

Personal favourite. A quaint spot with gypsy-chic decor of mismatched tablecloths and vintage artefacts. Burlesque Café has character in spades and among the best-prepared and most interesting cuisine on Natal’s South Coast. Its Scarlet Letter sandwich with smoked salmon, capers, dill, cream cheese and a horseradish mayo is a hit. Tel 039-314-9886.

Local legend. The Waffle House in Ramsgate is a Margate institution and it’s king in the art of sweet and savoury waffles. The Banofee waffle with banana and caramel is a treat. Tel 039-314-9424.

Seaside lunch. Opposite Margate’s well-known stretch of palm trees, Larry’s Family Restaurant has hopes for a Guinness World record with nearly 17000 name boards dangling from the roof and walls – a tradition started in 1992. Enjoy a burger and add your name. Tel 039-317-2277.

Sublime seafood. Said to take its name from the 1950s classic movie, The Blue Lagoon is virtually on the Ramsgate Beach and offers the best seafood in the area (it’s worth the slightly pricey bill). Tel 039-314-4149.

Best pizza. La Capannina serves cheesy, crispy-based wood-fired pizzas with a wide, elevated sea view. Try the flagship Capannina pizza, a four-seasons pizza with salami and onions. Tel 039-317-1078.

Sundowner Spot. The Cock & Tail with its yellow and purple neon lights overlooking fairy-lit palm trees along the beachfront has a romantic atmosphere and serves pub fare and potent cocktails. Tel 039-312-2383.

Stay here

Accommodation options are almost endless, with timeshare units and holiday resorts being the most popular and plenty of guest houses, B&Bs and holiday rentals too.

Family Resorts. Margate Sands is very popular and virtually on the main beach. All units in the eight-floor building have sea views and, with a swimming deck close to Beach Road, it’s easy to lose yourself in the party atmosphere spilling over from the surrounding clubs, bars and the beach. There’s also a braai area, a spa and games room. Units have carpeted bedrooms, a living area with TV and open-plan kitchen. Costs from R1 200 for an eight-sleeper unit a night. Tel 039-312-8100. www.margatesandsresort.co.za

Couple’s Retreat. Beachcomber Bay B&B has a breathtaking sea view from its perch on a slope. There’s a spa bath, braai area, swimming pool, lounge with big-screen TV and a bar area. The rooms, each with an en-suite bathroom, differ in decor but have a relaxed atmosphere with comfortable couches or chairs in the room. The guest house offers access to the beach via a walkway at the bottom of the garden and, while it’s not far from Margate’s central buzz, it offers peace and privacy. Rooms cost from R370 a person a night sharing or from R520 a person sharing in the deluxe suite with a private patio. Tel 039-317-4473. www.beachcomberbay.co.za

Easy Outing. Giovanna B&B is a well-priced accommodation option about two kilometres from Margate’s main beach. Rooms are simple, elegant, clean and spacious, the service is great and breakfasts (anything from continental to omelettes) are prepared to your liking. From R200 a person sharing, with discounts for children aged four to 14. Tel 082-325-4261, website.

Useful Contact

Margate Tourism Office, tel 039-312-2322, email, website.

Getting There

Irrespective of where you start, you’re likely to use the N2 and N3. From Cape Town, I recommend you take the N1 around Lesotho rather than the shorter, but dangerous N2 stretch through the Eastern Cape. From Joburg, it’s a straightforward 550 kilometres along the N3. You can also fly to Durban’s King Shaka Airport (135 kilometres away) and rent a car or take the Margate Shuttle.

More info on the town of Margate

More info on the Hibiscus Coast area

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