Sizzling Seychelles

Text: Mark Sampson. Article from the March 2014 issue of Compleat Golfer Magazine.

If you’re undecided about where to go for your next golfing trip, Mark Sampson has the answer: an island getaway with a course as beautiful as it is beastly.

The Seychelles hardly needs any introduction – the white beaches, indigo-blue water and palm fronds dancing in the breeze are the basis for any snapshot or postcard from the Indian Ocean islands. We’ve seen it all before and quickly turn the page so as not to gaze at the image like a campfire flame.

And yet the reality is that these pictures do no justice to the real thing, and when you do encounter the coarse white sand squeezing between your toes, and lay eyes on the filter-clear water, your brain does a numb tap dance. This is because it’s never seen anything quite like it and, with no yardstick to go by, it’s unsure of how to classify or categorise the information. Such was my experience upon arriving on the small island of Praslin in the lap of luxury offered by Constance Lémuria (part of the Constance Hotels and Resorts group).

Praslin is either a 15-minute flight from the main island of Mahé or a two-hour ferry ride, with either option offering a memorable trip.

The resort, although not massive, gives a feeling of space and privacy, with a variety of villas and rooms to accommodate the discerning tastes of the traveller. The feeling of solitude is broken when you arrive for mealtime, when guests descend on the buffet tables like early gold-rush pioneers spotting gold for the first time. Food is an important part of the Constance Lémuria attraction and with three restaurants and five bars available, each dining experience is completely different from the next, yet equally unmissable.

Breakfast is followed by the day’s most difficult decision – what to do for the rest of it. While this may sound like a simple task, for novice travellers, arguing over the variety of activities can put any relationship to the test. Relaxing on the beach or by the pool while sipping cocktails and catching up on a good novel always seems to be a strong contender. For the less sedentary, you can slide into the warm waters and simply float about, or throw on a snorkel and fins and enjoy what it feels like to swim in an oversized tropical fish tank.

A variety of water sports are available, from kayaking and sailing to scuba diving and deep-sea fishing.Tennis, gym and bicycle rides for the health-conscious guests can be followed by a visit to the spa, where relaxation is taken to a new level.

Of course, for readers of this magazine in particular, the golf course will be a major drawcard of the resort. Constance Lémuria boasts the only 18-hole course in the entire Seychelles region, and what a course it is. Designed by Rodney Wright and Marc Farry, this par-70 layout is somewhat of a Jekyll-and-Hyde scenario – bipolar in the sense that the course is so unique, scenic and surreal that the experience is enjoyable by default, even when you notice your score is a handful of shots worse than normal. With water and dense bush adjacent to the fairways, any shot not finding the short grass tends to result in a lost ball, so ensure that you’ve packed a few extra sleeves for your round here.

The first 12 holes at Lémuria are fairly open, meandering as the course winds through the palms, mangroves and in between tidal inlets. The start, however, merely softens you up for the final six holes, located on the ‘other side’ of the road. Here the true test begins, as you suddenly find yourself on what feels like an entirely new course that traverses through a coconut forest, with steep inclines, sharp descents and landing areas that feel tighter than the width of the bar at the 19th hole.

The holes may be tough, but they are offset by superb panoramic views of the ocean and thick coastal vegetation. The par-three 15th is the feature hole and is a true beauty, requiring a few minutes to take in the scenery – most notably the 50-metre drop from tee to green. At 150 metres in length, this short hole is a jaw-dropper, with the green way below and a thin strip of mangrove trees separating it from what is  reputed to be one of the most beautiful beaches in the world, Anse Georgette.

Lémuria is a course influenced by strong seasonal winds and it requires a number of rounds to understand its nuances and differing moods. It’s not particularly long, so my advice would be to keep the driver in the bag – or in the hotel room, in case you are tempted to hit the big stick. Rather opt for accuracy off the tee or you risk spending your time scouring dense bush in search of your ball. Regardless of your score, this is a layout that you are unlikely to forget, for its spectacular scenery and the top-class service from the golf club.

Lémuria is loosely translated to ‘lost land’, a now outdated hypothesis of vanished land in the Indian and Pacific Oceans – yet, in this case, it’s a place to find yourself. The hotel prides itself in taking pleasure in the small details, which guests come to expect from a hotel of this stature. It’s a place to be completely pampered and forget about your worries. Until, that is, you have to board the plane for the 15-minute return flight to Mahé…

For more info about Constance Lémuria, visit www.lemuriaresort. constancehotels.com.

Things to remember

The heat and the sun: The Seychelles’ tropical climate means burning midday temperatures and year-round humidity, leaving you dripping with sweat. Remember to stay hydrated and to apply ample suntan lotion.

Dress codes: Even though this is a family resort, it is an upmarket destination. Dinner especially requires a semi-formal dress code.

Beaches are unmanned:  No beaches have lifeguards. When swimming, make sure you do so well within your own ability.

Costs for the shoestring traveller: The cost of cool drinks and alcohol is very high. Why not take a bike ride into town to experience the culture and pick up some of the local brew at the same time?