Madikwe Game Reserve

Text and pictures: Peter Chadwick – This article is from the November 2011 issue of Country Life.

Lying in a transition zone, Madikwe Game Reserve is particularly rich in habitats and species.

Madikwe Game Reserve has long fascinated me.

From the time I heard about plans for its development I have kept a close eye on it, but without actually being able to visit the area.

What really attracted me to it was that it’s where the arid west overlaps with the moister east .

This results in a wide variety of habitats, an impressive bird list and consequently new photographic challenges.

So when I was offered an opportunity to spend four days there at Motswiri Private Game Lodge, I jumped at the chance and was soon heading away from Johannesburg on the N4 to Zeerust and from there the Abjaterskop Gate of Madikwe Game Reserve.

Even before I drove through the gate the birding had already started, with Marico Sunbird, Chinspot Batis, Long-billed Crombec and Brubru all feeding in an acacia tree, not to mention Kalahari Scrub-Robin on the ground below. After getting directions to Motswiri, my family and I were soon eagerly driving deeper into the reserve, passing herds of Burchell’s zebra, impala, kudu and stately giraffe looking out over their surroundings with a regal stare. Lilac-breasted Roller; Southern Yellow-billed Hornbill, Magpie Shrike and pretty Marico Flycatchers (6 on the checklist on page 27) all showed themselves along the road’s edges, and although we couldn’t see any Crimson- breasted Shrike (10 on checklist), they were regularly heard in the thorny thickets.

On our arrival at Motswiri we were warmly welcomed with a quenching drink and refresher towels by Zede and Hanri Smit, the managers of the lodge, and they soon had us settled into our luxury chalet tucked amongst the leadwood trees. No sooner had we put down our bags than a small herd of Cape buffalo arrived at the waterhole in front of the lodge and spent several minutes drinking, before melting silently back into the bush. There was also a constant flurry of feathered activity at the waterhole, with the small Blue, Violet-eared (5 on checklist) and Black-faced Waxbills coming down to drink, along with Green-winged Pytilia (2 on checklist), African Firefinch, Yellow-fronted Canary, Golden-breasted Bunting (above) and African Red-eyed Bulbul. Being ever restless, I couldn’t wait for the afternoon game drive and so grabbed my binoculars and wandered through the lodge grounds that are protected by an electric fence. In the undergrowth, Southern Boubou,White-throated Robin-Chat (1 on checklist), Karoo Thrush, Kurrichane Thrush, Crested and Natal Spurfowl (above) and African Firefinch were seen, while above them African Pied Barbet, Crested Barbet, Yellow-bellied Eremomela and Orange-breasted Bush-Shrike were worthwhile sightings.

Soon after a scrumptious high tea, we were out on the game drive in an open vehicle that allowed us to savour the wonderful smells of the bushveld and feel the breeze on our faces. First up was a herd of elephant grazing contentedly. This was followed by a family of four klipspringer that bounded with ease across the rocky hillsides. A flash of orange produced my first lifer of the trip, namely a female Short-toed Rock-Thrush. High above, a pair of African Hawk-Eagles hunted and, in the distance, a Brown Snake-Eagle hovered over some prey item.

Crimson-breasted Shrike then became regular sightings and their contrasting black and crimson colouring must be one of the most characteristic sights in the arid bushveld. They were often in the presence of Southern Pied Babblers (3 on checklist), and on one occasion formed part of a birding party that included Black-crowned Tchagra, Black-backed Puffback, Red-billed Buffalo-Weaver and Cardinal Woodpecker. As we rounded a corner Zede pointed out two well-fed male lions lying with their bellies in the air next to the carcass of a bull elephant. They’d obviously eaten to excess and now lay in the evening sun trying to overcome the discomfort of their stretched stomachs. In a tree close by, a Black-shouldered Kite wagged its tail and uttered harsh alarm calls, while a Red-crested Korhaan moved slowly through the long grass, oblivious to the two felines lying near by.  We were to return a couple of times to the elephant carcass over the next two days and on the last morning were privileged to watch a brown hyena and a spotted hyena feeding side by side on the massive meal.

As the sun began to set, we headed away from the lions and stopped in a clearing for the compulsory sundowner with delicious snacks. The evening light lent the clouds a pink-purple hue and the night birds replaced the day shift. Spotted Thick-knee and Fiery-necked Nightjar were soon heard calling in abundance and, after getting into the vehicle again, we managed to locate both Spotted Eagle-Owl and Southern White-faced Scops-Owl with the use of a spotlight. After a day of great excitement we soon felt much like the two male lions, full to the brim and in need of a good night’s sleep,

The next morning we were woken by the welcome sound of francolins and Crowned Guineafowl calling. This quickly roused us and had us hurrying to head out into the bush again.

A stop at Tlou Dam was perfectly timed, with white rhino, elephant and a large herd of Cape buffalo all coming down to drink. Egyptian Goose, South African Shelduck, Swainson’s Spurfowl, Three-banded Plover; Red-knobbed Coot, African Black Crake, Blacksmith Lapwing and Water Thick-knees were all added to our growing list.

These were soon joined by Yellow-throated Sandgrouse, Burchell’s Sandgrouse and Namaqua Sandgrouse, and it was the first time I had seen all three sandgrouse species drinking together

A commotion next to the dam wall had us turning to see a Gabar Goshawk (7 on checklist) which had caught a small bird and was now plucking at its feathers. Scaly-feathered Finch hopped about agitatedly, probably having lost one of their group to the small hunter. In the far distance a Southern Pale Chanting Goshawk was easily identified as it sat high in a dead tree.

A call over the radio then had Zede sitting bolt upright and he immediately turned to me to say that the rare yellow-breasted form of the Crimson-breasted Shrike had been spotted way north on the boundary. Without hesitation we left the dam and drove slowly northwards, ticking off Swallow-tailed Bee-Eater, Southern White-crowned Shrike (4 on checklist), Purple Roller (8 on checklist), Black-throated Canary (9 on checklist), Fiscal Flycatcher and Familiar Chat along the way.

On our arrival in the general area where the bird was last seen we all searched eagerly for it but only spotted the by now ‘normal’ Crimson-breasted Shrike.

Arrow-marked Babbler, Pearl-spotted Owl, Black-collared Barbet and even a Martial Eagle were scarcely looked at until my daughter Sune spotted the yellow-breasted focus of our attention. Madikwe is reported to have the highest incidence of this unusual form and I was particularly pleased when the bird seemed unfazed by its uniqueness, allowing several pictures to be taken of it.

The birding and game viewing at Madikwe has to rate amongst the best in the country and I will definitely be heading back to stay at Motswiri to enjoy this special part of South Africa again.

Birdlife South Africa ww.birdlife.org.za Motswiri Lodge www.motswiri.com

Footnotes:

Season and Weather

Hot and humid summers with afternoon thundershowers. Cooler, pleasant winters with more stable weather.

Habitats

Madikwe lies in the transition zone between the dry Kalahari and wetter Lowveld bushveld. The altitude also varies considerably. This gives it a huge diversity of habitats and species.

Specials

African Hawk-Eagle, Yellow-throated Sandgrouse, African Pied Babbler, Crimson-breasted Shrike and Black-faced Waxbill.

GettingThere

From Pretoria and Johannesburg, take the N4 to Zeerust. In Zeerust, turn right onto the R47/R49 to Gabarone. The Abjaterskop Gate of Madikwe Game Reserve lies about 90km along this road.

Motswiri Lodge

Situated in a leadwood forest on the western side of Madikwe, Motswiri Lodge comprises five luxury suites plus a family suite, comfortable lounges, a bar; an extensive deck and a swimming pool. A waterhole in front of the lodge is often frequented by game and you can also go on morning and afternoon game drives with a knowledgeable guide.

Checklist:

10 specials to try to spot in Madikwe Game Reserve.

1. Found in thick scrubveld, the White-throated Robin-Chat (Witkeeljanfrederik) is the only robin in the area to have a white wing bar Like other robins it is a well-known songster and accomplished mimic.
2. The Green-winged Pytilia (Gewone Melba) is a common resident of thorny scrubveld, often seen in the company of waxbills and firefinches.The male is distinguishable by its red face.
3. Often heard before it is seen, the Southern Pied Babbler (Witkatlagter) lives up to its noisy name, occurring in small family groups that often accompany parties of birds in arid thornveld.
4. The Southern White-crowned Shrike (Kremetartlaksman) occurs in small family groups that stay in constant contact with one another through shrill whistling.
5. The Violet-eared Waxbill (Koningblousysie) is one of the most attractive waxbills.The male differs from the female by having a chestnut head and body, a blue rump and violet on the cheeks.The female is paler.
6. A conspicuous species, the Marico Flycatcher (Maricovlieëvanger) is often seen perched in prominent positions in arid savannah, from where it launches itself after insects, taking them both in the air and on the ground.
7. The Gabar Goshawk (Kleinsingvalk) is a small, voracious raptor which specialises in hunting small birds. A melanistic form is fairly common.
8. The Purple Roller (Groottroupant) is the largest roller in the region and builds its nest in the hollows of dead branches. Its display flight consists of a noisy side-to-side rocking motion.
9. Most easily seen near waterholes, where it sometimes congregates in large numbers, the Black- throated Canary (Bergkanarie) is a common resident that might undergo local movements.
10. The yellow-breasted form of the Crimson-breasted Shrike (Rooiborslaksman) is rare, although Madikwe seems to be a particularly good spot for finding it. This shrike is one of the most striking birds of the arid bushveld and is often found in pairs.