Source: Southern Africa’s top 21 parks taken from the April 2010 Issue of Getaway Magazine.

In Zimbabwe’s time of troubles, Hwange became a near-forgotten park where tourists feared to go. These days it’s bouncing right back. By Mario Gomes. Photos by Don Pinnock.

Hwange National Park is slowly coming back to life after years of struggle in the backwash of Zimbabwe’s economic collapse. Funded entirely from tourist dollars, it limped on, kept alive by dedicated game guards and donations from organisations such as the Save Hwange Trust.

There are tales of poaching and poverty in Zimbabwe and they are all true. But everyone who travels through Hwange National Park comes back awed by the wildlife, including huge herds of elephants.

If you’re prepared to run the gauntlet of irritating roadblocks on the way there, it’s really worth a visit. The park has among the highest diversity of mammals for any national park in the world, with around 108 species and over 400 types of birds, including 50 raptors. There are an estimated 30 000 elephants.

Another plus is 482 kilometres of game-viewing roads with few tourists to spoil the sightings. The landscape includes desert sand and sparse woodland, as well as grasslands and granite outcrops.

Hwange has recently undergone a clean-up and most direction signs have been repainted. Main Camp has been refurbished and the accommodation there and at the park’s lodges, cottages, chalets and camping facilities is good.

Water supply at Main Camp is sometimes erratic, however, as elephants pull up the pipes – a problem shared by Sinamatella Camp, although there it’s caused by old pumps. Robins Camp accommodation is not as good, but clean.

Picture by Graham Theobald

The Hide, a luxury lodge, and several run by Wilderness Safaris are being refurbished, as is Hwange Safari Lodge. In the lower price bracket, try Miombo Backpackers Lodge, Ivory Lodge and Ganda Lodge, all clean and excellent value.

Off the beaten track in the park you often need to make a plan.

Most picnic sites – which can be booked overnight – are in good condition, with water and ablutions available. The landmark Nyamandlhovu Platform has been fixed up and is in excellent condition.

While roads around Main Camp have been graded, they deteriorate towards the north, but are still accessible to vehicles with high clearance. If you’re looking for a park with few tourists and loads of animals, Hwange is for you.

A braai, a beer, the crackle of a fire and the deep African night – Hwange is a perfect setting for them all

Travel adviser

How safe is the park?

Despite fears about farm attacks and fuel shortages in the past, Hwange has remained a safe place to visit. The park’s staff is friendly and helpful. The best time to go is from May to December.

Dawn after a night of howling hyenas is a gritty time – but eventually, the heat will haul you out of your tent.

How to get there

You can fly to Harare, Bulawayo or Victoria Falls and charter a plane to Hwange National Park Airport. If you have accommodation booked at a lodge, they’ll pick you up.

if you’re driving, there’s the Beitbridge border post from South Africa or Plumtree and Pandamatenga from Botswana.

How to book

Book through Zimbabwe Parks and Wildlife Management Authority at:

Harare

(tel +263-4-70-6077, e-mail reservations@zimparks.co.zw)

or Bulawayo

(tel +263-9-65592, e-mail reservationsbyo@zimparks.co.zw)

Web www.zimparks.com.

For more on this park, go on-line and search www.getaway.co.za.

This article was taken from the back issue of Getaway. April 2010 Special Edition.