Fit to ride
Bike setup for beginners and people who really should know better
No matter how much money you spend on your bike, how fit you are and how hard you train; optimal performance will elude you if your bike is not set up correctly. While beginners are quick to ask for help, a surprising number of experienced cyclists also ride bikes that don’t fit them properly. Once upon a time when you bought your bike, everything may have been set up perfectly, but with every upgrade, long journey or service, there is a chance that the position of the fastening bolts may drift. Over time, the cumulative effect of these tiny movements can result in a bike that really isn’t set up correctly for you any more. You need to check the following points from time to time, just to be sure..
Cleat Position
In my opinion, this is the most important part of bike set-up. Incorrect cleat set-up can create many different injuries and can also make your cycling very uncomfortable. The cleat must always be set exactly on the ball of the foot. Numbness or “Hot Foot” is the most common discomfort a rider may experience due to incorrect cleat set-up.
Floating or fixed cleat?
I prefer a cleat with float as this allows your foot and leg to align itself. I wouldn’t recommend too much float as this can also create injury. If you prefer a fixed position, be sure to have your cleat set-up done accurately.
Every brand of shoe, and even a different style of shoe within the same brand may have a slightly different sole thickness, and that means your cleat setup needs to be done all over again when you get new shoes.
Lever position
It is important for the wrist to be in a neutral position on the bar when reaching for the brake and gear levers.
Road:
Many riders have their levers far too low down. This forces your body forwards and also puts tremendous strain on your arms, hands and shoulders, as you try to keep yourself upright. If your levers are too low, you will experience numb hands, lower back ache, shoulder pain, neck ache, or a combination of these. If your levers are positioned too upright, the same discomfort may be experienced, as you flex your wrists and try to find room for your arms and body in the limited space available. Use the pictures as a guide, and make sure that you don’t look like those X images.
MTB:
The levers must be angled down at about 45 degrees, allowing the rider to keep the wrist straight. If the lever is placed at 90 degrees to the handlebar the rider has to bend the wrist when braking or shifting gears and this is what creates numbness in the hands or fingers. It is also far easier to get your fingers onto the brake lever in the downward position rather than having to loosen your grip and cock your wrist to grab the brake if it is positioned at 90 degrees to the bar. Wrist position should also be neutral on the bar if you use them.
Saddle height
Although pretty radical departures may be made for disciplines like trail riding, a rider’s saddle height is essentially measured the same way for both MTB and Road set-up if any serious distance is to be covered while seated. It is very important to set the saddle at the correct height not only to prevent injuries, but also to optimise your efficiency while cycling. As seen in the pictures, the rider is seated in the riding position with the crank set at the bottom of the pedal stroke. Using red marker dots to pin-point the hip, knee and ankle, we can measure the angle/bend of the rider’s legs. This angle should always measure 150 degrees. If the angle differs from this, the saddle must either move up or down. In most cases I find that the saddle height is set too low.
Discomforts that may be experienced if your saddle is too low:
- Pressure or pain over the patella (knee cap).
- Fatigued quad muscles.
- Lack of power/efficiency on climbs.
- The need to shift your bum back on the saddle all the time.
- Feels like you are pushing and not pulling while pedalling.
- Heel tends to drop down at the bottom of the pedal stroke.
Discomforts that may be experienced if your saddle is too high:
- Hips may rock on the saddle as you reach the bottom of the pedal stroke.
- ITB syndrome, pain on the bony prominence on the outside of the knee joint.
- Inefficient pedal stroke.
- Pointing your toes as you reach the bottom of the pedal stroke.
Stem length
A riders’ stem length is a very important part of the set-up. As you can see in the pictures, the stem length/handlebar reach is measured using a 90 degree angle.
The stem length for a road bike set-up is measured using three points: the hip, tip of shoulder and the centre of the hand.
The stem length for MTB set-up is measured by taking a straight line through the centre of the torso and down the arm while the rider is seated. Both road and MTB approximate 90 degree angles, but if a rider prefers a more aggressive position this angle can be adjusted according to rider comfort.
Discomforts experienced if the stem is too long (road and MTB):
Lower back ache, tired arms, numb hands, and a stiff neck during or after longer rides. A rider may also complain of shoulder aches between the shoulder blades. The rider may experience a feeling of a “speed wobble” on fast descents, or feel off-balance in corners.
Discomforts experienced if the stem is too short (road and MTB):
Numb hands, pain up the arms. If the stem is too short the rider will be sitting too upright and this will create an uneven weight distribution with all the weight focused on the rear of the bike which makes the front end too light. On a mountain bike there is loss of traction in technical sections or it feels as if the bike wants to wheelie on steep climbs.
Difference in height between the saddle and the top of the handlebars
If the difference between the top of the saddle and the handlebar is minimal this will create a feeling of the bike “shaking” or catching a “speed wobble” as the weight distribution between the rear wheel and the front wheel is not balanced. Use the images below as a guide to getting the height right.
Comfortable position:
Difference should be anywhere between 40mm – 80mm.
Aggressive/race position:
Difference should be anywhere between 100mm -150mm.
Handlebar width
The width of a rider’s handlebar should be based on their shoulder width.
Road:
Handlebars are sold in 40cm, 42cm and 44cm widths. If the handlebars are too narrow, you will restrict your breathing and you may also experience tension across the shoulder blades. If the handlebars are too wide you will experience the feeling of being off balance and out of control.
MTB:
With obvious exceptions for trail riding or muscling a single speed bike over obstacles, the width of a rider’s handlebar should be based on their shoulder width. For comfortable endurance riding, MTB handlebars should be slightly wider than the rider’s exact shoulder width. This will help with leverage and optimise control of the bike through technical sections. The width should be measured from the centre of the one grip to the centre of the other grip. This measurement should be at least 4-6cm wider than the rider’s shoulder width.
Flat or riser bars?
If practicality and comfort are important, the answer to this question is dependent on what type of setup you are looking for. A flat bar offers a more aggressive, racing position. The flat bar can also be narrower. Riser bars do make you sit a bit more upright so for a more comfortable ride they are recommended. I would suggest using bar ends to allow for more hand positions; this also helps alleviate any pressure on the hand.
Fore and aft saddle position
Measuring the fore and aft position of the saddle is really basic. The cranks must be set parallel with the ground, and the pedal surface level. Allow the plumb line to drop freely, record where the line intersects and this will allow you to determine how far back or forward the saddle needs to be shifted. The plumb line must intersect the centre of the pedal axle.
Level seat
Place the spirit level on top of the saddle and set the saddle level. If the saddle is nose-down you will slide forward, adding pressure to your hands and arms. If the saddle is nose-up you will add pressure to your pelvic region, and this will make your ride very uncomfortable.
How to determine frame size
The best way to determine frame size is by measuring your inseam leg length. Take your shoes and socks off, stand with your back to the wall. Now place a book/ruler between your legs, and mark the top of the book/ruler on the wall. The measurement from the floor to this mark is your inner leg length. By matching this measurement to the frame size chart, you will be able to determine the correct size bike for you.
If the measurement falls between the above measurements- choose the smaller frame size
Example: Inseam = 975 the rider should choose the smaller frame – 63cm
*The saddle height reflected in the column on the right should be treated as a guide – people are comfortable on saddles up to 4cm higher or lower than that measurement!
Inseam measurement in mm-H 0 X .65 = road frame in cm (Road frame size in cm – 10) x 0.3937 = MTB frame in inches
Converting your road bike set-up for triathlon and time trial (TT)
There is no need to go out and spend money on a seat post with an aggressive forward angle; this will only add stress to the quads. If you are going to use a road bike for a triathlon or TT, I would recommend making the following basic changes to your road set-up for a more aero position.
- Shift the saddle 1 cm forward.
- Have tri bars fitted, this will help you get lower and more aero. Set the elbow cups close together but not too close as this will restrict your breathing.
- In most cases I would recommend having a short stem (± 80mm) as this will prevent you from feeling too stretched out while riding on your tri bars; putting less strain on your back, less weight on your arms. This will also help you save energy.
- Lower your handlebars by removing a few spacers, as the tri bar elbow cups may be too high. They need to be lowered to achieve a better aero setup. The difference in height between the saddle and handlebars must be adjusted according to your own unigue size, suppleness, build and fitness.
- The saddle must be set level with a spirit level. The nose of the saddle may also be dipped slightly if you feel too much pressure on your pelvic region.
For full details and all the pictures please buy the November Issue of Ride Magazine
This informative article was taken from the November Issue of Ride Magazine. It was written by Arran Brown, and the photos were taken by Andrew Steer.
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