Exotic Istanbul
Text: Jenny Handley. Photograph: Irene Lamprakou/Getty Images/Gallo Images. Article from the January 2013 issue of Food and Home Entertaining Magazine.
Jenny Handley visited Istanbul, where East meets West and history, culture and cuisine combine in a kaleidoscope of flavours that can all be termed Turkish delight
My interest in Istanbul was piqued when my husband stopped there just over a year ago. I had begged him to buy me some brightly coloured hand-painted ceramics, so was disappointed (and mildly suspicious) when he returned bearing just a box of Turkish Delight, claiming that he had not seen any crockery anywhere.
With direct flights from Cape Town and Johannesburg, Istanbul provides easy access to Europe, so when he chose it as the launchpad for an eat-and-explore European trip, I made a mental note to discover crockery, however hard it may be, while in the capital of Turkey. We hit the ground running for action in Istanbul, formerly Constantinople, determined to pack as many sights into two days as physically possible. The iconic view of the Blue Mosque (the famous religious building with its delicate patterns of blue Iznik tiles) from the window of our centrally situated hotel in the Sultanahmet district was an inspiring welcome. We walked for five minutes towards the famous shopping grotto of the Grand Bazaar, following the exotic aromas of vibrantly coloured spices. You’re spoilt for choice with the vast variety of spices and teas on display, all waiting to be scooped up, weighed and packaged.
Our love affair with Turkish food started in the market and blossomed on the streets where their flavourful cuisine is best enjoyed
In the bazaar I could not move a metre without falling over piles of vividly coloured crockery; bowls, plates, platters – you name it, I tripped over it. Penance for my husband (who suggested that perhaps Turkey had suffered ceramic shortages or delivery problems a year ago) was to carry all my purchases, so there was no holding back. He was taken aside after a serious marathon of haggling for my first purchase (a set of bowls that I managed to get for a third of the original asking price) and told of my talents as a negotiator. Victorious, I went on to purchase unique and special items of jewellery and leather, merchandised among carpets and clothing, all the while fine-tuning my haggling with the stallholders. These lively Turks seemed to have an endless supply of cousins who had a smaller or larger size of what you wanted “just a minute away”.
Endearing and hospitable, bottomless cups of apple tea were enjoyed with them during our shopping pursuits. Exhausted by the constant bartering, my husband sought refuge in the Fes Cafe, where he could sip a Turkish coffee and enjoy the ambience of the vibrant souk while I proceeded, undeterred.
In excess of 5 000 shops line the 60 streets that form the maze of the Grand Bazaar, one of the largest covered markets in the world. Not blessed with a good sense of direction (actually no navigational genes whatsoever), I was quick to identify four water fountains as landmarks to prevent getting lost in the maze of passages that all looked so similar. Looking up at the ancient mosaic patterns on the domed ceilings was breathtaking but of little help. I wondered whether sultans and their harems too had feared being lost in this mecca of shopping back in 1461, when the trading labyrinth was built.
Our love affair with Turkish food started in the market and blossomed on the streets where their flavourful cuisine is best enjoyed. The Roman, Byzantine and especially the Ottoman empires have each had their influence on the cuisine and it represents a fusion of Central Asian, Middle Eastern and Balkan styles. Light use of spices and plentiful fish and seafood are popular.
Keftas and kebabs, shawarmas and slow-roasted lamb, meze, pilafs, potatoes, peppers and olives washed down with freshly squeezed fruit juices are an obvious choice, preferably enjoyed outside on a cobbled street. Lentils, beans, nuts and yoghurt, pastries and pastas are plentiful too. Turkish Delight is not the only sweet treat in Turkey.
The many ice-cream vendors dressed in their fezzes and dramatically embroidered waistcoats could win an Oscar for their ebullient display and nifty handwork as they stir ice cream with a long metal or wooden paddle and then, with much aplomb, sweep it up into the air and deftly let it land in your cone. Bakiava and other nutty, syrupy desserts provided sustenance on the streets.
After waking to the sounds of calls to prayer, it was time for breakfast – cancel any thoughts of bacon and eggs, or continental; the sultry, sexy aromas of tomato-based tapenades and delicacies, cheeses, sucuk (spicy Turkish sausage), menemen (a mixture of tomatoes, green peppers, onion, olive oil and egg) provided the most exotic start to the day, with Turkish teas.
It is essential to get to the Yerebatan Sarnici (Basilica Cistern) as it opens to avoid lengthy queues. Built in the 6th century, the James Bond movie From Russia with Love was filmed in this underground reservoir that was discovered in 1545. Marble columns and Medusa heads (one upside down) made memorable viewing as we enjoyed the cool and tranquil respite from the hustle and bustle outside, to the gentle strains of chamber music.
When boarding the ferry to venture from one continent to another – Europe to Asia – we spotted the long line of locals queuing at lunchtime for their balik ekmek – whole fish that has just been taken out of the Bosphorus, fried or barbecued and served on a roll or bread, with lettuce, tomatoes and onion. It’s just 5TL (Turkish lira, about R25) for this palatable and unique snack.
As a self-confessed, hedonistic shopper, Istanbul provided perfect fodder for my addiction, in addition to culture, beauty and history.
Lasting memories linger in the distinctive Turkish purchases and memories made in this exotic spot they now call Istanbul.
Tips
- Choose a centrally situated hotel that will allow you to walk to all the major attractions.
- Include the Hagia Sophia, a museum and architectural miracle that was previously a mosque and church, on your ‘to-do’ list.
- If you are open-minded, include a visit to the Turkish baths, where you won’t be the only one going topless.
- If you prefer not to walk, trams are regular and reasonable, as are taxis.
- Most places accept euros and credit cards, but your change will be given in Turkish lira.
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