Diving the SS Thistlegorm
After gaining some incredible insight into what we were about to witness, a dive briefing was held and the plan was to do three dives on the wreck, including a night dive. Shortly after the briefing we arrived at the dive site and started preparing our gear. My kit of choice for this particular dive was a DIR style back plate and wing with a 12L twin set, as well as a HID cave light for providing sufficient light when penetrating the wreck. Due to the size and depth of the vessel we wanted to spend the maximum amount of time on the wreck at the planned depth of 30m. We opted to use Enriched Air Nitrox and concluded that the best EANx mixture to give us maximum bottom time would be a standard 32EANx mixture. With the preparations and kitting up completed and final buddy checks done, I very excitedly took the plunge.
Whilst floating on the surface and waiting for the other divers to enter the water, I looked down and right below me I could see a large part of the wreck! The visibility was in excess of 30m, with no currents. The final OK was given and we descended down as a group, passing the large stern gun of the wreck until we levelled out at a depth of 27m. Making our way to the bow of the wreck we started our dive at the stern, where the large propellers are located. Finning slowly past the propellers, my attention was drawn to the extensive damage done to the cargo area, caused by the bombs. Swimming closer, I could see a lot of unused artillery shells, Wellington boots and cargo crates strewn between all the damage. Finning over the bomb-damaged cargo, we entered an overhead opening that lead to a large cargo hole that contained crates of rifles, aircraft parts and some more Wellington boots. For this part of the dive, a dive light was required as natural light is blocked out and very little ambient light enters the wreck.
Making our way in single file formation through the cargo hole, we entered another cargo area where we found BSA motorcycles, jeeps, Bedford trucks and train locomotives.
Some light penetrates this compartment because a large overhead portion is open. With so much to see I hadn’t noticed the marine life at first, but a huge Napoleon Wrasse, Crocodile fish and resident turtle eventually did catch my eye. After spending around 10 minutes in this cargo area, we made our way up through the overhead opening and past the bridge towards the bow. Here we gathered to have a look at the large windlasses and anchor chains protruding from the anchors, which are still imbedded in the sea bed. At this stage we were about 37 minutes into the dive and started our ascent to the surface.
For me, diving the SS Thistlegorm was an opportunity to step into the past and a highly ‘emotional’ experience. It is after all a bombsite, with visible signs of great destruction and loss. It’s also a giant underwater museum, a war grave and a unique piece of military history, long gone but never forgotten.
Having dived numerous wrecks around the world, the SS Thistlegorm was a true highlight. The allure of this dive, clarity of the water and depth at which she lies, all contribute to an unforgettable experience. I would like to point out that this dive requires an Advanced Open Water qualification and it is also recommended to have done an Enriched Air Nitrox Course. EANx will allow you to have extended bottom time and shorter surface intervals, resulting in more dives in a shorter time frame. During our visit we were fortunate not to have any currents, however they are present throughout the year and flow in a general north, south direction. The Red Sea is diveable all year round, but it is at its best between June and September. The SS Thistlegorm wreck is just one of the many wrecks dived during our visit to the North Red Sea and for a ‘wreckaholic’ like myself this specific dive was truly a breathtaking experience and a ‘must dive’ for all divers visiting the northern Red Sea.
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