Cape Whale Coast
Text by Fatima Jakoet.
Source: This article was taken from the June 2011 issue of Getaway Magazine
Every year, southern right whales journey more than 3000 kilometres from the Antarctic Ocean to the Southern African coastline with a mission to procreate. Whale watchers, however, are simply enthralled by their aquatic acrobatics.
It may seem strange that these huge, 40-tonne creatures embark on an annual round trip almost the length of Africa to mate, give birth and raise their calves. Surely there has to be somewhere closer to go?
Not really. Between their icy Southern Ocean home and warmer climes there is, well, endless ocean. So our coastal waters are the closest docking place to chilly Antarctica. Plus there are a number of wide, shallow bays ideal for breeding and rearing young. But not all whales choose the easy option – some trek as far north as Tanzania, while others head to the coasts of South America, Australia and New Zealand.
Unfortunately, our waters don’t have enough food (krill) to sustain the appetite of the southern right whale (Eubalaena australis) all year round. So in summer they spend their time feeding in the cold waters of the south and in winter they trek to warmer, more protected waters. Moving at a speed of only 500 metres to four kilometres an hour (with a top speed of about 17 kilometres an hour closer to the coast), it’s a long, slow journey. Dr Peter Best, a whale researcher from the Mammal Research Institute at the University of Pretoria, once recorded that the trip back to the Southern Ocean could take the whales 10 to 20 days, depending on how much they dawdle along the way.
What’s in a name?
Sadly, this whale is so named because in earlier whaling days it was considered the ‘right’ whale for open-boat whalers to harpoon for their large quantities of oil, meat and baleen. It was the easiest to hunt because of its slow speed, predictable migration paths, location inshore and, most importantly, that it floated after being harpooned (most whales sink and are more difficult to recover). The main targets were mothers and their young and so the population decreased rapidly. About 1200 whales were killed along the South African coastline between 1785 and 1805. In 1935, southern rights became the first of the large whales to be protected from exploitation. Today, they’re protected by all countries with known breeding populations (Argentina, Australia, Brazil, Chile, New Zealand, South Africa and Uruguay). In 1995, there were about 5000 southern rights in the world; today, the estimated figure is 12000. ‘Now,’ says Dr Best, ‘it’s a great good-news story and a tribute to the people who introduced protection for this species back in the 1930s.’
How to spot a Southern right
They’ve got large white callosities (with barnacles and lice) on their heads. They don’t have a dorsal fin on their broad back and their pointed flukes have a distinct notch in the centre. Another attribute is the V-shaped plume of spray from its blowhole (in other whales, the spray makes a single line). You’ll also notice an arch in the mouth and if you look at it from the side, it looks like an upside-down smile. The southern right’s skin is usually dark grey or black with white or brown patches, while calves (as seen in the picture) are a grey-blue colour.
Fast Facts
- Southern rights are baleen whales, which means that instead of teeth, they have baleen plates used for sieving food from mouthfuls of seawater.
- A southern right consumes about 400 kg of food a day.
- One testicle weighs about 500 kg.
- A female generally doesn’t breed for three years after giving birth and the gestation period is about one year.
Actually, we humans don’t know all that much about the private lives of southern right whales. Perhaps that’s part of their mystique. As soon as those graceful V-shaped flukes show themselves above the waterline, locals, visitors and tourists whip out their binoculars, not only to get a closer look, but with the hope of seeing more of that enormous, 16-metre body rolling lazily about in the water.
People flock to the best viewing sites along the shore or go on trails that pretty much guarantee good sightings; they even hop on boats that venture out into the whales’ territory (but not too close). Amid all this excitement and activity, the southern rights calmly carry on doing what they do – and, we like to think, occasionally perform some graceful acrobatic tricks to show just how agile they are, despite their weight and size.
Once the calves are born (about six metres long at birth), moms appear to be teaching the little ones tricks. Scientists have made some attempts to attach a purpose to these antics, but whether they’re to cool off or simply to show what cool creatures they are is a moot point. Their repertoire includes sailing, fluking, lobtailing, logging, spouting and spyhopping. Non-calving whales also do these moves, but it’s thought this is to show off or lure potential mates. Some say it’s a form of communicating. Dr Best says breaching – when a whale launches itself out of the water – is the most unusual action and seems to happen after a feeding session. Scientists speculate that it provides relief of abdominal discomfort… something like burping a baby. It could also be a way of loosening skin parasites or to scratch an itchy spot – or, indeed, just fun and games.
Know how to behave
- It is an offence to approach any whale closer than 300 metres without a permit. Make sure your operator has one. Generally, only one to four are issued per town. Legal permit holders are listed on www.sabbwwa.org.za
- No cow and calf pairs may be approached by anyone.
- Your boat should always move slowly around sea animals.
- Don’t chase whales or split up a group – especially mothers and their calves.
The southern right whales stay in our waters for about four to five months (May to September) and they’re not shy to frolic, court and nurse just metres from the shore.
In Hermanus, the locals are passionate about their whales. If you ask any questions about these mammals, the humans are very keen to tell you everything they know – and tell it as if they were talking about their own children. It usually starts with, ‘Did you know…’ and then they have you hooked.
Percy Heywood of Percy Tours in Hermanus, for example, has plenty of interesting southern right titbits, such as that a baby whale consumes up to 600 litres of milk daily and grows about three centimetres each day.
Those whales that are not calving spend their time wooing and pursuing mates and there are some whose reasons for migrating are not known – perhaps they’re just along for the journey and the camaraderie. In short, we don’t know why they tag along.
Geoff Spiby, a professional underwater photographer, reckons that, like humans, they could simply be trying to escape the cold, miserable conditions for a while. Sort of like a vacation. He’s had experiences most can only dream of, and never felt any fear, just awe. ‘The sheer size is something you only appreciate when you swim down the length of the animal and it just goes on and on,’ he says.
As with most great migrations, the enormity and magnificent show draws us to the coast each year to witness this fascinating cycle. You could sit for hours admiring them and wondering why they do what they do. Whether it’s playfulness, communication or some more mysterious ritual, there’s no doubt it’s a spectacular performance – so humour them by being there to watch. The Cape Whale Coast Route was launched this year just in time to make any whale-watching experience a truly memorable one.
The Cape Whale Coast Route
Starting in Gordon’s Bay, the route winds around the Kogelberg Biosphere Reserve, through Kleinmond and the Whale Festival town of Hermanus, then to Stanford, ending at Pearly Beach in Gansbaai (famous for its shark-cage diving). The new Cape Whale Coast Route is guaranteed to produce the best views and easiest sightings. As you make your way through these quaint coastal towns, you’ll be treated to sea vistas on one side and mountains on the other.
The purpose of the route is to highlight and promote the various attractions these towns offer, besides great whale watching. Although the entire route is known for its bountiful whale sightings, particularly in the Walker Bay area between Hermanus and Gansbaai, it’s also a nature-lover’s paradise with its biodiversity and myriad plant life. Adventure seekers have a selection of activities to keep them occupied between viewings.
If you just want to take a scenic drive, the route is about 150 kilometres and takes up to two hours from start to finish. The best way to experience it, however, is to spend a few days in each of the towns and enjoy what they have to offer. These range from golf courses, historic sites and nature reserves to wine routes and adventure activities (see travel planner for more).
Timing is everything, however. Every year, Hermanus bustles with excitement as the Whale Festival kicks off (this year it’s 30 September to 4 October) and tens of thousands of visitors stream into the town to take part in the festivities – including live performances, sales and, of course, whale watching. If you’d prefer to avoid the crowds, it’s best to steer clear of the route during this time – though it’s hard to resist the urge not to miss out.
The whale season usually lasts from May to September each year, so be prepared to pay a little more for accommodation during these months. If you’re planning to be there during the festival, you may struggle to find a place to stay, so book soon. If you’ve never been on the route, you’ve not only been missing out on the spectacular whale show, but also the friendly locals, curious penguins, menacing sharks, spectacular fynbos, delicious food and beautiful scenery.
Although some whales weigh more than 40 tonnes, they have enough power to launch themselves out of the water – picture on right.
Travel Planner
Getting there
From Cape Town, take the N2 towards Sir Lowry’s Pass, past Somerset West and turn right at the Gordon’s Bay turn-off. Then turn left at the T-junction at Gordon’s Bay and head out on the R44/Clarence Drive. You’ll see Cape Whale Coast Route signs along the road.
Where to eat
There are many places on the route to grab a bite. For great whale watching while you dine, head to Bientang’s Cave in Hermanus. Whales cavort only a few metres away. Tel 028-312-3454
Marine Drive also has a selection of eateries from which to choose.
There are a few restaurants in Queen Victoria Street in Stanford, otherwise try Marianas Home Deli and Bistro for delicious country cooking. Open for lunch from Thursday to Sunday; it’s popular, so booking is essential. Tel 028-341-0272
Restaurant De La Mer serves excellent food and is the only restaurant on Gansbaai’s old harbour. Cell 078-626-2807
Europa Coffee Shop and Restaurant in Kleinmond has a view of the harbour and serves a large selection of cakes, delicious lamb and, of course, seafood. Tel 028-271-5107
Who to contact
- Hangklip-Kleinmond Tourism tel 028-271-5657
- Hermanus Tourism tel 028-312-2629
- Stanford Tourism tel 028-341-0340
- Gansbaai Tourism tel 028-384-1439
- Cape Whale Coast Route
Accommodation options and costs
Misty Waves Boutique Hotel (Hermanus) has great ocean views and four-star rooms.
* B&B from R700 a person a night. Tel 028-313-8460,
Quarters Hermanus Hotel is a new addition to the waterfront, with magnificent views.
* B&B from R820 a person a night. Tel 028-313-7700,
Hermanus Beach Villa has sea and mountain views.
* B&B from R420 a person a night. Tel 028-314-1298,
Holidayscape has self-catering holiday houses in Kleinmond, Rooi Els, Betty’s Bay and Pringle Bay, ranging from budget to luxury options.
Tel 028-271-5775, email, website.
Stanford Country Cottages offers a range of self-catering houses and cottages fully equipped for up to 10 people.
* From R600 to R2200 a night for a cottage (depending on season and number of guests).
Tel 028-341-0965, email, website
Watch whales from your bed at Whalesong Lodge, on the cliffs of De Kelders.
* B&B from R700 a person a night. Tel 028-384-1865,
What to do and see
Hangklip-Kleinmond
- Hike, swim, river raft, tube or mountain bike in the Kogelberg Nature Reserve. All trails were closed temporarily due to fires in March, but check for updates. website
- View the penguin colony at Stony Point in Betty’s Bay. It’s one of only three land-based colonies on the continent. Tel 082-416-8683.
- Picnic at the Harold Porter Botanical Gardens. Entry is R16 for adults, R6 for kids and students and senior citizens pay R10. Tel 028-272-9311
- Sandboard on the slopes of the Blesberg Dunes in Betty’s Bay. Get a permit and hire boards at Jackazz Eco-Adventures at the Village Centre Tel 028-272-9048, website
- Hire a canoe from Kleinmond Pleasure Boats at the lagoon. Cell 082-964-8550
- Play golf at the well-known Arabella Golf Club. Tel 028-284-0105, website
- Visit GaBoLi, Betty’s Bay’s chocolatier. Tel 028-272-9421
Hermanus
- Wine tasting in the Hemel-en-Aarde valley. Tel 028-316-2629
- Quad biking (from R300 a person), treetop sliding (from R250 a person) and paintball-ing (from R150 a person) with Hermanus Forest Adventures. Tel 083-517-3635, websites
- Hike in the Fernkloof Nature Reserve. Tel 028-313-0819, website
- Kayak around the harbour with Walker Bay Adventures (R300 a person). They also offer a range of other activities. Cell 082-739-0159, website
- Visit the Whale Museum and the Old Harbour Museum Tel 028-312-1475 website
- Play golf at the 27-hole Hermanus Golf Club. Tel 028-312-1954, website
Stanford
- Enjoy wines on the newly established Stanford Wine Route where you can try wines from nine farms. Tel 028-312-1785
- Go on a river cruise with Platanna River Cruises from R100 a person (minimum three passengers). Tel 073-318-5078, website
- Go horse riding with African Horse Company from R6000 a person for a two-day trail. Cell 082-667-9232, website
- Hike or camp at the Sal-monsdam Nature Reserve. website
Gansbaai
- Shark-cage diving is the most popular thing to do in Gansbaai and there are a number of operators, such as Shark Diving Unlimited (tel 028-384-2787, website) and Shark Cage Diving Gansbaai (tel 021-671-4777, website), among others.
- Take a boat trip to see Dyer Island’s seal colony and African penguins. Dyer Island Cruises tel 028-384-0406, website
- Visit the Danger Point lighthouse, website
- Hike the Duiwelsgat trail. website
More info on the Western Cape area |
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