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A wild ride! Quick taste of Zim in Mitsubishi’s Pajero Sport
Text: Danie Botha. Photography: Jannie Herbst. Article from the July 2012 issue of Leisure Wheels Magazine.
Back in Africa’s wildest of days adventurers like Sir David Livingstone had to keep a wary eye out for predators during road-side lunch breaks. Real predators like lion. But days when wildlife roamed free and plentiful are all in the past, and long gone. Or are they? We recently discovered the proverbial Garden of Eden, albeit one with a few haak-en-steek (umbrella thorn) bushes thrown in for good measure. It is called… Zimbabwe
We left Randburg at 7am on a Sunday morning, and headed north on the N1 toll road. We turned off the main N1 drag at Modimolle (formerly known as Nylstroom), and followed the R33 to Lephalale (Ellisras). However, on this section we lost at least 45 minutes due to belated road works. It seems as if the road works will definitely be finished by 2020.
Anyway, we aimed for the quiet Stockpoort/Parr’s Halt crossing, about 70km west of the more commercial Martin’s Drift post. We’ve used the smaller border post numerous times in the past – and it has always proved to be a most speedy and no-nonsense experience.
After the crossing into Botswana, the tar gives way to gravel for about 70km. It’s a good gravel road, so cruising at a comfortable nokm/h is not an issue.
We continued first to the town of Mahalapye, then the bigger Palapye, and then north towards Francistown – one of the biggest towns in Botswana. In Francistown we turned the Pajero’s nose north-west again, to the towns of Dumela, Sebina Mosetse and finally, Nata. We had easily covered 900km in the day in a relaxed fashion.
That night, around the dinner table, surrounded by lots of tourists, there was a sense of anticipation in the air. Botswana is cool. But we’ve known that for a long time. Zimbabwe was a different matter. We had no concise idea what to expect. We could only bank on Jannie’s research on internet forums and blogs.
He had read some horror stories too, especially about the notorious police.
It was all terribly exciting, really.
We hit the road early – we had about 200km of tar roads to cover before we reached the Pandamatenga border post between Botswana and Zimbabwe. This was dispatched briskly, despite some road works.
Just before turning off to the Pandamatenga border post, we stopped to fill up the Pajero’s tank. We didn’t know what we would get in Zim, remember.
We arrived at the border post. However, it seemed not to be a border post at all. There were some chickens milling about, a few houses, and a shipping container. A man walked over.
“Dumela!”
The man pointed in the direction of the container. There, written on a piece of paper, were the words we were looking for: “Immigration here”.
Inside the container were three ladies. We were each offered a seat and pens to fill in the required paperwork.
After ten minutes we headed out, through the antiquated boom gate, and across a narrow metal bridge, spanning the very dry Ramokgwebana River.
We were in Zimbabwe!
However, instead of burning buildings and drunken war veterans dancing about we saw a most quaint compound, with a stately and neat immigration building. It looked a lot more official and professional on the Zim side than it had on Botswana’s side.
But on this side there was no one. Not a soul. This, of course, was problematic, since we expected to contend with a lot of red tape here. Eventually a young man pointed us in the direction of buildings behind the official office – the staff’s living quarters.
Knocking on these doors eventually flushed out an embarrassed but friendly immigration lady, who had been focused on cleaning her house.
“We hardly have any people come through here,” she said.
Soon the red tape process was in full swing. BT 46 LZ GP. That’s the Pajero’s registration number, and I still know it by heart. That’s because I wrote it down about 21 times in that office. Crossing into Zimbabwe at a very busy border post must be extremely tedious and time consuming exercise.
Finally, we were done. We had been looking forward to a steaming cup of coffee ever since we left Nata that morning. Now we just had to find a most agreeable tree with some shade.
However, the two-spoor track that led us out of the compound refused to turn into a proper dirt road. Instead it remained a two-spoor track which was decidedly rough in places, winding through the wild bush. We passed a sign that said something about a… safari area.
We saw some elephant dung on the road, which we thought was interesting. There were no fences or warnings.
After 5,2km of this two-spoor dirt road, we were reasonably keen on that long-awaited cup of coffee.
At 5,5km the call came from the back seat. “Lion! Right… there!”
I slammed on the brakes. Oh dear, the lack of caffeine was clearly beginning to cause hallucinations. I reversed the Pajero Sport to the spot where the coffee-deprived Maryke was pointing.
There they were, right next to the road! Five big, grown-up lions!
Strangely, we didn’t feel like coffee any more. And, we agreed that this part of Zim at least is very much like Dr David Livingstone would have experienced Africa. It’s wild!
We eventually reached the main A8 tar road between Victoria Falls and Hwange. We headed to Victoria Falls. However, after 2.1km on this lovely road, we were confronted by our very first Zimbabwean police road block.
In these situations you are confronted by a police person standing in the road, stopping your vehicle. Presumably this is a junior person, since he (or she) has the most dangerous job at the road block. This person ensures that you bring your vehicle to a complete stop, and then requests that you park your SA registered vehicle in a special search area. Local vehicles are – mostly – just waved through.
At this area various police persons keenly await your arrival. You hand over your licence and the temporary import permit document.
If these are all found to be in order by this police person, another person takes over to delve a bit deeper. Like checking on the fire extinguisher, the reflective vest and the reflective… %**#!
We had planned to add the reflective stickers (front and rear) to the Mitsubishi during our much anticipated coffee stop – which never took place.
“It’s an offence. We will fine you,” said the second-tier police officer.
“But sir…?” we tried.
“It’s an offence. Speak to that man,” said the sulky man as he walked off, his part of the transaction clearly done.
“This fine is normally $40 but we will be very reasonable, and make it $20,” said the man with the book.
That was real sweet of him, we thought. While he was busy with the paperwork, I commenced sticking the reflective stickers over the Mitsubishi’s reflectors.
We were soon cleared to go after handing over the $20 (and getting a receipt).
We puttered the last 60km to Victoria Falls. We even negotiated two more road blocks, and with our reflective stickers doing their reflective job, all went fine.
The Victoria Falls is another of those bucket-list stories… you just have to do it. Also known as “the cloud that thunders”, the waterfall is claimed to be the waterfall with the biggest volume in the world, thanks to its width and height.
At its highest point the falls is 108 metres high. Combined with the high flow rate, there is a permanent “cloud” in the air above the falls. The falls thunders, the massive Zambezi River is awe-inspiring – it’s a most magnificent thing.
We couldn’t linger long though. We still had to get to The Hide Lodge inside the Hwange National Park. We tackled the A8 main road again, and presently came upon the very same road block where we had been given our $20 fine. And guess what? Mister second-tier policeman came strolling over.
“Driving license and temporary import permit,” he barked.
“Sir, you have already fined us today. Don’t you remember us, sir?”
He was clearly a bit disappointed at this turn of events, but waved us through.
We soon realised though, that the two-spoor track after the border crossing had put our entire day behind schedule. We had to clock in at Hwange before 6pm, otherwise the guards could refuse entry. With poaching a huge problem, any cars driving around at night in the park could (and probably would) be considered to belong to poachers, and fired upon. Since the Mitsubishi Pajero Sport is not bullet proof, we preferred not to be fired upon.
We pressed on, taking a very quiet C-road to the main gate – suffice to say that the Mitsubishi made good time on this road, which was thankfully void of any traffic. And police. Even the road-side donkeys were taking a break.
We finally, along with the last light, arrived at the spectacular The Hide Lodge.
And it was good. Really, really good.
A train, a city and lots of rocks
There are no perimeter fences around The Hide. In the night a herd of around 40 elephant had had a drink at the watering hole right in front of the restaurant area. For breakfast we were joined by buffalo, zebra and blue wildebeest.
Well camouflaged lions relaxing next to the road. A sable antelope with its familiar black coat.
With the help of one of the game rangers, who escorted us to a point about 1km from the lodge, past the initial maize of dirt roads around the lodge and past a railway line – luxury train safaris run between Hwange and Vic Falls – we were soon on our own again. On another remote dirt road with bucket loads of elephant, er… compost in the road.
Although it was unclear whether we were still in the park or not, we decided not to have a coffee break. Just in case.
We finally reached the main A8 tar road again – and so started a very monotonous part of the journey.
With trees on either side of the road, relatively close to the road, it felt like we were driving through a tunnel.
And so we arrived in Bulawayo – a big old city with traffic lights that are mostly out of order. We made our way out of the relative chaos as soon as we could, and headed in the direction of Matabo – and the Amalinda Lodge, close to Cecil John Rhodes’ grave, in the Matabo Hills.
And, just outside the city limits, a road block. A man in civilian clothes strolled over. At first I wondered if he was going to try and sell me something. But then he asked for my license and that famous temporary import permit.
“Sorry, but are you a policeman?” I was admittedly feeling a bit adventurous.
“Must I show you my ID card? Huh?” he answered, slightly snappy.
“No… Sir. I was just wondering about it. No need for that, Sir. Here you go…”
I handed him the paperwork. He had a quick look.
“Travel safely”
Off we went, checking into Amalinda Lodge about 20 minutes later.
And it was good. Really, really good.
Heading home
It was our last day in Zimbabwe, and we had lots of ground to cover. Like in 900km. This distance was no worry really, considering the Pajero Sport’s laid-back and comfortable ride.
But the road blocks had us slightly worried. So it was with some trepidation that we left the beautiful Amalinda Lodge in our dust, and headed first back to Bulawayo and then south on the main A6 road.
We refuelled in Bulawayo, paying hard cash – unlike Botswana, credit card facilities are virtually non-existent in Zimbabwe. Driving through the outskirts of Bulawayo, we came across our first road block. The process had begun.
“License and temporary import permit?”
I handed it over.
“Where are you coming from, and where are you heading to?” he asked.
I told him about Amalinda Lodge and that we were heading for Beit Bridge, and SA.
“How was your stay in Zimbabwe?”
I didn’t want to get overly optimistic, but was this policeman actually… friendly?
I replied that we had had a wonderful time in his beautiful country.
“Hah! That’s good! Have a lovely day and drive safely” he said, waving us on.
Blimey! He didn’t even do the customary fire extinguisher check!
Amazingly, even though we encountered six more road blocks on the first stretch of the 300km or so to the border, we had absolutely no hassles at any of them.
The Mitsubishi soldiered on. The closer we came to the actual border post though, the sparser the vegetation became. In fact, in places it looked like a desert.
The border itself will certainly not feature on any landscaping awards line-up. It’s convincingly horrible, and bare. But at least there was no waiting in lines, so the process went quickly. On the SA side the facilities were in much better nick.
The rest of our journey passed without incident – we arrived in Randburg at 6pm. We were tired, and glad to be home. Well, kind of glad. The charm of Hwange, especially, still lingered.
A final word
Zimbabwe really surprised us.
We half-expected an economically crippled country with angry and frustrated people harassing any non-Zimbabwean. We half-expected that bitter war veterans would relieve us of our most valuable possessions. We expected the roads to be in terrible shape. We were even expecting to be arrested by the Zimbabwe police, at some stage.
None of the above turned out to be true. Instead we discovered a proverbial Garden of Eden. The splendour of the Victoria Falls was spectacular. The variety, number and health of the animals in the Hwange National Park were amazing. All the people – including some policemen – were friendly, and the roads were in better shape than many roads in SA.
Sure, some of the fees and taxes are a rip-off. But we’ve got the same issues in SA, don’t we?
Most importantly, we reckon, it was a real wild adventure. From the deserted border post, the lion next to the two-spoor road, and hordes of elephant in Hwange. Even the police road blocks, the $1 toll gates, the donkey carts on national roads and the overloaded buses with their bent chassis.
It was a real wild African experience.
Almost like in the wild old days of Dr David Livingstone and company.
Driving in Zim
Fast facts
- According to Zimbabwe’s Central Statistical Office, the annual inflation rate in 1998 was 32%. In August 2008 the inflation rate peaked at a reputed 11,2- million percent!
- In 2006 the United Nations’ World Health Organisation apparently reported that, in Zim, life expectancy for men was 37 years, and 34 years for women. At the time it was the lowest in the world.
- Zimbabwe has a population of around 12-million people.
- The economic and political hardships in Zimbabwe are said to have led to about 3,4-million Zimbabweans fleeing abroad. It is estimated that about three million of these refugees are in SA and Botswana.
- The worst mining disaster in Zim took place in the town of Hwange (formerly Wankie) in 1972. Several gas explosions in a coal mine saw 426 men lose their lives. To this day 423 bodies remain entombed in the mine.
Costs in Zim (US dollars)
Diesel per litre – varies $1.30-$1.38
Road toll – $1 (five times)
Vehicle temp import permit – $55
Hwange entry per person – $15
Hwange entry per vehicle – $10
Victoria Falls entry per person – $20
Matobo Hills entry per person – $10
The Zim factor
In 1923, after many European farmers settled north of the Limpopo River, Southern Rhodesia was declared a self-governing colony. By 1965 the minority white government’s declared its independence from the United Kingdom. After this declaration various resistance groups took up arms against the embattled government of Ian Smith, and by 1978 Smith agreed on a general election.
In 1979 Abel Muzorewa, leader of the UANC party, became the new prime minister of what can best be described as a transition government. This also coincided with a name change: Rhodesia became Zimbabwe Rhodesia.
In 1980 new elections saw a new victor take charge: Robert Mugabe’s ZANU party. Between 1980 and 2008 Zimbabweans were in for a few ups and a lot of downs. By 1999 Mugabe’s robust land reform policies, combined with hyperinflation, caused the country’s economy to collapse, and especially the poor continued to suffer massively.
By 2008 the ruling party seemingly had little choice but to form a coalition arrangement between Mugabe and Morgan Tsvangirai, leader of the Movement for Democratic Change (MDC). Mugabe remained president and Tsvangirai became prime minister. This arrangement continues to this day.
Clearly the current situation is not moonlight and roses for all Zimbabweans, no matter their ethnic background. But relative peace and stability seem to prevail.
The country abandoned its own Zimbabwean dollar for the US version… so you don’t need a wheelbarrow to cart the money needed to buy bread anymore. In fact, the economy, at face value, seems stable. The shops are stocked and the garages have fuel. And by some weird twist of economic fate, Zimbabweans still pay less for fuel than South Africans do.
A (travel) plan of action
This is a suggested itinerary and route if you would also like to experience a wild Zimbabwean adventure. Of course, you can stay over longer at each venue – this is simply a guide for your convenience.
Day 1: Randburg to Nata Lodge, Botswana
Driving distance: About 900km More information: www.natalodge.com
Driving conditions: Highway, reasonable B-roads but if possible avoid R33 between Modimolle and Lephalale due to road works. About 80km of good dirt road after border crossing at Stockpoort. The rest of the drive is on good tar roads, all the way to Nata Lodge.
Day 2: Nata Lodge (Botswana) to Victoria Falls Safari Lodge (Zimbabwe)
Driving distance: 370km
More information: www.victoria-falls-safari-lodge.com
Driving conditions: Very good (and brand new) tar road between Nata and Pandamatenga, but road works in the last 100km or so but no “stop and go” delays. Road between Pandamatenga border post and A8 main tar road is a two-spoor track, about 60km long. Last 70km on good tar roads.
Day 3: Victoria Falls Safari Lodge to The Hide, Hwange National Park.
Driving distance: 210km
More information: www.thehide.com
Driving conditions: Good tar roads from Victoria Falls to Hwange National Park main camp.
From there it is another 40km to The Hide in the park, on narrow dirt roads. The speed limit in the park is 40km/h, so please take this into account when planning your travelling time.
Day 4: The Hide, Hwange National Park to Amalinda Lodge, Matobo Hills.
Driving distance: 330km
More information: www.campamalinda.com
Driving conditions: Ask the friendly staff at The Hide to escort you past the railway line. From there it is easy to follow a short-cut out of the park. You eventually rejoin the main A8 tar road to Bulawayo, and continue all the way on good tar to Zimbabwe’s second biggest city. In the city, follow the directions to Matobo. The Camp Amalinda is 40km from the city centre.
Day 5: Amalinda Lodge, Matobo Hills to Randburg
Driving distance: about 900km
Driving conditions: The roads are reasonable. The Beit Bridge border post is not a lot of fun, but once you cross the Limpopo River, things look up again. Incidentally, it is much easier going from Zim to SA than the other way around, especially at this controversial border post. In SA you have to contend with a wide but busy single lane road until you reach Polokwane. From there it is all plain sailing on the toll road.
Sport the change
In some countries this Mitsubishi is known as the Challenger. It’s also called Pajero Dakar, Montero Sport and Nativa in other parts of the world. Here we know it simply as Pajero Sport.
Based on the Triton’s ladder-frame chassis, the Pajero Sport is not quite as sophisticated as its bigger name sake, the Pajero (that rides on a more modern and less workman-like monocoque body and suspension set-up). Nevertheless, the Sport’s double wishbone coil spring setup at the front, aided by a three-link coil spring system at the back, provides one of the more comfortable rides in its class.
The range was recently expanded with the introduction of a manual version of the 3.2Di-D GLS 4×4 model – it’s unfortunately the only engine option available.
Not that the engine is bad. On the contrary. It’s the same mill that powers the bigger Pajero, albeit in a slightly lower state of electronic tune. In the sport the four-cylinder, common-rail engine delivers 120 kW and 343 Nm of torque at 2000r/min. The test unit was fitted with the easy-going four-speed automatic gearbox.
The Sport is also equipped with Mitsubishi’s Super Select 4WD system. The system features a selection between 2H, 4H (4×4 high range, where the torque is split in a 33/37, front/rear ratio), 4HLC (4×4 high range, with a 50/50 split between the axles and the centre differential locked), and 4LLC (4×4 low-range).
The 4H setting can be selected while on the move – a feature we really appreciated when we suddenly ended up on a very sandy road.
For more serious off-road adventures the Sport also gets a standard rear differential lock, 215mm ground clearance and the more robust ladder-frame chassis.
The seven-seater interior (the last row of pews fold flat into the floor) is maybe not as plush as the bigger Pajero’s interior, but it is loaded with standard kit. This includes a top-end entertainment system with six speakers and centre display system, trip computer, halogen headlights with an auto on/off feature, rain-sensing wiper system, privacy glass, park distance control, 17-inch alloy wheels, climate control, six airbags, ABS with EBD, and the full leather treatment.
Driving this Pajero Sport with its four- speed automatic gearbox proved to be a comfortable and laid-back experience. As long as you don’t rustle the Mitsubishi’s tail feathers – like trying to go as fast as it can go, all the time – the partnership between the auto shifter and the 3,2-litre turbocharged engine is an amicable one.
We’ve always appreciated the honest, workman-like character of the Pajero Sport. It’s a no-nonsense, what-you-see- is-what-you-get kinda 4×4.
The Mitsubishi Pajero Sport 3.2Di-D GLS 4×4 AUTO sells for R445 900. This includes a five-year/100 000km service plan. Service intervals are pegged at 10 000km.
More information: www.mitsubishi-motors.co.za
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