A walk in the Lonely Wild
Text: Kate Collins. Pictures: Russell MacLaughlin. Article from the Winter 2012 issue of Wild Magazine.
Kruger has a new backpack trail in the area between the Letaba low water bridge and Mingerhout dam. Kate Collins leapt at the chance to be one of the first participants on the Lonely Bull Backpack Trail.
Walking single file, my body froze as we rounded a corner and encountered a large elephant bull, mere metres away from us. The bull got as much of a fright and thundered off into the dense mopaneveld. This was not the first encounter we’d had with a lone bull. A few hours earlier we’d followed a buffalo for a kilometre or so as it made its way along a riverbed. It took quite some time before it saw our group and when it did, it disappeared, a flash of black through the mopane tree landscape.
Robert Bryden, regional activities coordinator of the Kruger National Park and our guide on the Lonely Bull Trail, said hippo, elephant and buffalo were often seen on their own in the vicinity, so the name fits the trail well.
“Every step our forefathers took was thought through. Each step was taken with care. Like them, you need to think about where you place your feet,” Robert said as he briefed us before the trail. He explained that the trail would teach us to appreciate things a lot more. “We don’t know when we’ll find our next water, for instance. Things like water should not be taken for granted.” In true wilderness style, we would dig for water, filter and purify it. Everything that was packed had to be a necessity.
Our stop breaks were chosen well, under large shady trees where we could eat, chat and nap. On one break we had a surprise greeting as an African hawk eagle swooped down from the tree above and flew down close to our heads, scanning the scene as it passed.
Walking in the late afternoon along the lush Letaba, the river was alive with activity. Hippos grunting, a buffalo walking in the reeds, a waterbuck on the other side of the river and the most gorgeous elephant herd sculpted by the late afternoon light, following one another in single file, much like our group. The elephants caught sight of something, possibly us, and charged up the side bank creating a huge dust cloud as they went.
Robert explained that wildlife sightings differ greatly from trip to trip. “It’s like buying a lotto ticket. Each is a different experience that you can’t replicate.”
His fellow guide Julie Bryden said you need to come with the right mental attitude. “Be ready to let nature give you what it thinks you need. Keep an open mind.”
We camped under a large jackalberry tree, a good vantage point and the safest place to be if something did come wandering in. Such as one of the many hippos we’d seen out of the water earlier that day. “When there is little moonlight, hippos like to eat during the day to see better. They use their long whiskers to feel for food, much like a blind person reads Braille,” explained Robert.
When we didn’t see animals we were aware of their presence. Aardvark burrows, leopard spoor, a python track, the body of an Eastern tiger snake (sadly dead), buffalo dung, black and white rhino tracks and some munched up leaves from an elephant, clearly dissatisfied with their taste.
The smaller creatures were fascinating. A nifty sand lizard, caterpillars, mopane worms and golden orb spiders, their webs adorning tree branches, causing us to reroute our pathway to avoid disrupting their intricately designed homes.
Wildlife sightings differ greatly from trip to trip. “Its like buying a lotto ticket. Each is a different experience that you can’t replicate.”
Even more than the animals, birds seemed to favour us. We saw a giant eagle-owl, kingfishers, bee-eaters, a grey-headed parrot, bateleurs and river birds including black storks, spoonbills and Egyptian geese. The best part was trailing along after four ground hornbills for a few kilometres and listening to the distant call of a pearl-spotted owlet.
Looking up we were surrounded by many different trees, from riverine forest along the Letaba to red bush willow and mopane trees. Later the trees suddenly became lala palms and at another point appleleaf, jackalberry and leadwoods.
As we all noticed, it didn’t take long for us to adjust from city mode to early nights and long 12-hour sleeps.
Most of our overnight sites, chosen as we went along, were close to a river for collecting water and bathing. Using a cup to pour water over your head is a superb way to cool off after a long day’s walk.
We spent our last night on a helicopter pad with a fence surrounding us. While most nights are spent in a tent, the fence around us allowed us to sleep under the stars.
We counted as many as 27 shooting stars before we shut our eyes and let the insects sing us to sleep.
“This trail gives you absolute freedom,” said Julie. “Large, untouched wilderness with bush as far as the eye can see. It’s overwhelming.” Fellow hikers Shelly and Allard felt the same: “It’s nature at its best. There are not many places or trails like this where people can enjoy the wild.”
“Large untouched wilderness with bush as far as the eye can see. It’s overwhelming.”
Early the next morning, we were awoken by a light rain. We scrambled for cover and started up our stoves for a cup of tea to greet the day. Walking along the Letaba for the last time we spotted a pod of 28 hippos, all looking at us curiously. We decided to sit on rocks above the bank, the closest I have ever been to hippo. We did hear the vehicle coming to collect us, but no-one wanted to leave.
Go online to watch our video taken on the trail.
Trip Planner
The Lonely Bull Trail stretches over four days, with departures from Shimuwini Camp every Wednesday and Sunday between 1 February and 31 October. The trail must be booked in advance and you have to provide your own camping equipment and food.
A kitlist can be found at this website.
Cost R1850 a person. Minimum four people, maximum eight. Minimum age is 12 years.
Contact Bridget Bagley 012-426-5111 or email.
Hesther van den Berg 012-426-5117 or email.
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