Bayview’s Big Waves And Big Boys
Liquid Dreams…
We all know of somebody who surfs, you might be a surfer yourself. Here in Hermanus we have average waves breaking more or less every single day, not like Jeffery’s Bay, but not bad! The most common surf spots in Hermanus are Onrus, Voelklip, being surfed more often then not. During winter the swells here get quite big and messy forcing locals to sit out on surfing or travel further up the East coast, but when the waves get too big to handle something magical happens in what one would consider an unsurfable spot in Hermanus.
Bayview’s little grassy patch becomes inundated with wetsuits, broken surfboards, surfboard trailers and group’s of half dressed men in towels. Little does the sleepy town of Hermanus know that these men, some brave locals and other’s pro big wave riders come here to surf some of the biggest waves recorded in South Africa. On a good day the right breaking wave formed by the fierce North West winds at Bayview reach between 18 to 20 feet, but on those rare days waves reach up and over 22 feet, what most consider much meaner than Dungeons in Cape Town. A big wave is classed as a wave that is 20 feet and over and these beasts are breaking right on our doorstep. Got your attention now…
Surfers looking for a challenge started surfing the spot in 1979. What makes this spot so dangerous, more dangerous than most is the deep water and shallow reef. There is also the spiralling around and around if you happen to wipe out, all that while trying to retrieve your board as large wave’s rain down upon your head. Water pressure can also burst ear drums. A greater risk is being held under the water for long periods of time, pro surfers are equipped to handle these periods but it is dangerous. Most surfers rely on a leash so the board doesn’t get to far away from you but this can be a saving grace and a downfall, a leash can entangle a surfer and hold them down. And well then there is also the risk of bumping into a great white, seeing as the Hermanus area is well known for them.
Men have near drowned, broken boards and broken limbs all for that adrenaline rush that comes when surfing a big wave. Paddling out involves avoiding unforgiving waves and currents. Paddling back to shore involves avoiding the rocks or being swept against them. Watching all of this unravel takes a large amount of dedication; it is freezing out on the viewpoints! All that aside, it is the most nail biting, gut retching spectator sport known to mankind, better than rugby, yes you heard me right!
Hermanus local, Jay Jay begun surfing at Table View when he was in standard one. He could only go to the beach over weekends but began surfing regularly once out of school. Jay Jay moved around often from P.E. to Pretoria (hated the place) to Belville and then finally to Hermanus. Bayview is right on his doorstep and he found himself swinging by often. Jay Jay says that: “As you get older you begin to push the boundaries. If you actually go into that scary dark place that you are afraid of and you build up the courage to push the fear aside you soon realize how beautiful the space is and that fear is just a waste of time. If you want to see something you have never seen before you must do something you have never done before.”
The first time he surfed Bayview he was exhausted before he got into the water. A tornado of thoughts plagued him but it got better with time. Strangely, Bayview has been kind to Jay Jay and he has had more harrowing encounters in small surf than in bone crunching surf. He has been held under by a canopy of kelp, thought that it was then the end but soon realized there is a long way to go before drowning. After the third wave he popped up with a new set of lungs. Jay Jay feels that the closer you come to death the more you have to live for.
George, another local to watch in the water agrees. He came to Hermanus when he was 15 years old. He only started surfing when he was 19, late in his mind. George believes he should have been surfing when he was much, much younger. The first attempt to surf Bayview went well, he was still learning, went out with friends and the waves were small. The fact that he knew very little of surfing, big waves and the dangers was more than likely his saving grace. Goerge is now one of the first guys to paddle out when the surf reports come in announcing rising swells and big boy waves!
Unlike Jay Jay, George has borne the brunt of the monster waves. He has been smashed against rocks. On another occasion he miss judged the sets of waves knowing it was too shallow to get to the back. A wave broke a few meters away almost beheading him and held him under for what felt like an eternity. George says that: “Not any of the Hermanus locals qualify to be big wave riders like the International pro’s who live, train and travel extensively for it. The main point to remember when even contemplating to surf big waves is that you have to respect the power of the ocean and to know your limits.” Both George and Jay Jay surf these big waves with a sense of brilliance and ease. It is amazing to watch them and a handful of other surfers glide the face of a relentless wave, cheered on by those who either dream of surfing the big waves or who once where one of those guys out surfing Bayview.
Apart from our dedicated locals, this wave brings out pro surfers like Twiggy (Grant Baker), winner of Billabong XXL awards and the Mavericks Surf contest along with a handful of Hawaiians and Americans. If they are taking time out to come surf this spot you know it must be incredible! Twiggy grew up in Umhlanga Rocks, Kwazulu Natal. One would think he learnt to surf there but in 1980 in Hermanus is where he took up the sport whole heartedly. His grandparents lived here and he would spend every Christmas holiday in Hermanus.
He got his first boogyboard/body board and then finally a surfboard. When the day arrived of him receiving his first
surfboard, professional surfers across the world had no idea that one of South Africa’s surfing stars was about to emerge. The choice was never to go out and surf big waves but rather a natural progression in his career. Recognition for his efforts came in the form of sponsorships and the winning of international surfing awards.
Twiggy knows Bayview well, as a kid they would venture down and watch the swell, dreaming of one day surfing it. The day finally arrived in 1999 for Twiggy to paddle out into the raging swell of Bayview, it was amazing!
He brought a few friends, some of whom were the best big wave guys in the world here for Big Wave Africa on a huge
West swell and they all had some of the best waves of their lives out there. Twiggy says: “I’ve been a dedicated stalwart ever since. Surfing Bayview is unique because of its location in the beautiful Walker bay. The whales and sharks are ever present and the intense danger of getting in and out of the water when it’s big makes Bayview a world class wave on its day! There is a sense of danger when making the decision to surf big waves, but the trick is to minimize the risks and to not get in over your head. Bayview as a wave demands respect and if you give it, the place can reward you!”
Pro surfers and Twiggy alike maintain that to surf big waves you need to train, be experienced and dedicated. Pro’s like him train hard by kite boarding, hitting the gym regularly and combining all of it with pool training. He reiterates by saying: “Just take it slow, know your limits and try to test those in a responsible manner.”
There are rules of the game if you are going to watch; most of the spectators are surfers themselves who would appreciate that their view of the action not be obstructed. Do not stand in front of them with large cameras and umbrella’s, you will be sure to get a warning from either one of them. Also note that there are sheer cliff faces that tumble down into the churning sea, dogs and kids are welcome but need to be carefully watched.
Finally be warned, Bayview is not for newbie’s, dare devils or attention seekers. If you are heading out there with no experience you will drown or get badly injured. Do not head out if you do know what you are doing!
Like Twiggy says: “It is a very enjoyable experience learning the art of big wave riding and everyone has their limits, some of us just have bigger limits then others.”
Bayview as a wave demands respect!
Read more about the surfing legend who began surfing the spot in the 1970’s…Louis Day
(Photos in gallery by: Terri Klauber)
More info on the town of Hermanus |