A Cliff-Hanger on the Garden Route

At the 10-kilometre mark, the sound of crashing waves entices you to walk that little bit faster as curiosity and imagination begin to take hold…

Combining indigenous forests with coastal splendour, the Harkerville Trail near Plettenberg Bay rivals the Otter for scenery, but is not a good choice for vertigo sufferers, warns hiking veteran Tim Hartwright.

More spectacular, I believe than the Otter Trail

Rocky and unstable paths make a walking stick a useful aid.

The Harkerville Trail must rank as one of the best two-day trails in Southern Africa. Demanding and certainly not for the inexperienced or unfit, this trail is a ‘must do’ for anybody who considers themselves a serious hiker. However, if you suffer from fear of heights, maybe you should reconsider as I had some definite ‘don’t look down now’ moments.

The Harkerville Hut is where it all begins (this is also the final stay on the Outeniqua Trail). It’s a rambling old forestry house situated in pleasant surroundings close to Knysna and Plettenberg Bay.

The first day starts with an easy 10,5-kilometre walk through thick indigenous forest reminiscent of what you encounter on the Outeniqua and Tsitsikamma trails. This section has an amazing array of fungi, all tempting subjects for photographs. Forest stars and a selection of bracket fungi could well proclaim the presence of gnomes and elves who might invite you into their kingdom.

At the 10-kilometre mark, the sound of crashing waves entices you to walk that little bit faster as curiosity and imagination begin to take hold. Just as our group began to think that the sounds of the sea were just an illusion, the high canopy of the forest gave way to a cliff edge with an array of coastal flora and stunning vistas of Indian Ocean coastline.

Ahead was the beginning of the steep descent to the shore way below. Obligingly, the Department of Forestry (the former caretakers of the trail) has anchored wooden ladders to the cliff side to aid hikers down the steepest sections. Having all reached the bottom without injury, we rested on the pebbly shoreline while contemplating the way ahead.

A strong sea breeze and rolling, ominous grey clouds told us it was time to move on. Painted footprints indicated the path ahead as we began a three-kilometre clamber that took us the best part of four hours – even though chains and ladders helped us along the way. Fortunately the trail markers are very precise and the certainty that we were following a path that many hikers had trodden previously was comforting. We startled an otter in the middle of its grooming activities among the rocks. I don’t know who was more amazed at the discovery – us or the otter. Either way, Mr Otter was long gone before I could ready my camera.

Strategically placed bridges and chainladders are a boon to hikers traversing the rugged shoreline with its near-vertical cliffs.

Just as we were getting a little weary and thinking of the hut and an evening around the fire, we spied the path ahead. It seemed to be a series of zigzags scratched out of the near-vertical cliff face.

On closer inspection, the ascent was not quite as bad as it first appeared and after a supreme effort we were once more looking out to sea from the cliff top. A short distance further and Sinclair Hut came into view. If your nerves are shattered or the weather conditions are a problem, there is a five-kilometre escape route to the national road from the hut – but the second day of this amazing trail is really a must.

From the hut the trail again finds the cliff edge, offering more spectacular photo opportunities. Eventually the path descends to the rocky shoreline via a steep ‘wobbly knee’ path, reaching the bottom next to a picturesque little stream and rock pools.

Following the markers along the pebbly shoreline, we encountered seemingly insurmountable rocky outcrops that could be passed only with the use of chain ladders, bridges, steep scrambles and chains that have been secured into near-vertical rock faces. The second day of the trail, if possible, is even more spectacular than the first.

The cliff ascent seems to traverse almost impossible terrain and, once you reach the top, you’re surprised to encounter holidaymakers at the Kranshoek picnic area – given the feeling of remoteness along the route walked. The trail continues through more incredible indigenous forest, eventually returning you to Harkerville Hut and a hot shower.

We hiked the Harkerville as part of our Christmas combo which included the Outeniqua and Tsitsikamma trails. What a spectacular trilogy.

This article features courtesy of the August 2010 edition of Getaway magazine.