Precious piece of The Cape
Text: Scott Ramsay. Pictures Scott Ramsay and Amida Johns. Article from the December 2012 issue of Getaway Magazine.
Just an hour-and-a-half’s drive southeast of Cape Town is the mountainous Kogelberg Nature Reserve, a place that rivals the rainforests for diversity of plant species. It’s one of the wildest and least-disturbed places in the Cape, yet offers some of the most stylish accommodation.
It’s a curiosity of life that disasters often turn out to be blessings in disguise. Sometimes, however, they’re disguised more than usual.
When a fire raged through Kogelberg Nature Reserve for four days in December 1999, any future blessings were hidden by flames as hot as hell. The fynbos had been growing for about 30 years, and was thick and highly combustible. Desiccating south-easterly gales drove the fire over 100 square kilometres of mountains.
As the reserve manager of Kogelberg, Mark Johns had seen fires before, but seldom on this scale. He and his wife Amida had been living on the reserve since 1994 and Kogelberg had become their home. Eighteen years later, they’re still living in this isolated corner of the Cape Fold Belt which runs in a crescent at the southwestern tip of Africa.
As Mark and Amida looked on helplessly at the carnage, their souls were torn. On the one hand, the emerald mountains they loved were burning away in front of them. On the other, as botanists they knew that fire is a very necessary part of fynbos’s survival. Without it, the seeds can’t germinate or disperse and the plants will eventually die anyway. Fynbos needs fire at regular intervals to thrive.
But as the mountains lay black and smouldering, it must have been hard for even Mark and Amida to comprehend the future glory that was to rise from the ashes. In January 2001, just 13 months after the blaze, they and their young son Timothy were walking atop one of the mountain peaks as part of a post-fire inspection. They were hoping, optimistically, to rediscover a mysterious plant known as the golden protea (Mimetes stokoei).
First discovered in 1922 by the prolific botanist Thomas P Stokoe, the golden protea was last seen in 1967 and never again. The curator of the herbarium at Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens had even written an article in 1976 declaring it ‘Beyond Redemption’.
‘Back then it was known to grow only in a small patch in the Kogelberg mountains and nowhere else,’ Mark said, ‘but no-one had seen it for decades. Almost everyone at the time thought it was extinct.’
Old photographs and paintings indicated that this tall, silvery, shining plant had a conspicuous salmon-pink flower head. Like a mythological siren, it lured its admirers with its ephemeral beauty.
On that summer day, Mark, Amida and Timothy carefully searched the last-known area for the golden protea. ‘But, as usual, there was no sign of the long-gone Mimetes stokoei,’ Amida wrote in the book TP Stokoe – the man, the myths, the flowers.
‘We sat down on a large rock to eat our lunch. When the sandwiches had been dispatched we couldn’t resist a last look at a nearby hillside before going home.’
There, to their amazement, they discovered 24 young, silver plants, ‘each with three prominent red teeth at the tips of their delicate, pointed leaves’. There was no doubt: they had found the golden protea.
The fire which had raged through the mountains a year before had created just the right conditions for these extremely rare plants to germinate. Their seeds had lain dormant in the soil, buried by ants several decades ago.
‘We were ecstatic when we found them,’ Amida enthused. ‘Of course, it’s more of an accident really. You have to be walking in the right area at the right time. We could so easily have missed them.’
Centre of Cape flora
Just how many other plants are waiting to be rediscovered? Or how many new species are still to be found? ‘Chances are, quite a few,’ Amida explained. ‘You must understand, this is an astonishing place.’
Kogelberg Nature Reserve ranks as one of the most naturally diverse places on Earth. This relatively small protected area, just 90 kilometres southeast of Cape Town, contains more species of plants per hectare than any other place in the world, except the richest tropical rainforests.
About 1 800 species occur in just 70 square kilometres of mostly mountains (it also includes coastline, estuaries and marshland). What’s more, 77 of Kogelberg’s plants species are found nowhere else on the planet and 150 are rare, endangered or vulnerable. By comparison, Kruger National Park, covering about 20 000 square kilometres, has 2 000 species, of which fewer than 10 are endemic.
Kogelberg forms part of the Cape Floral Kingdom, which stretches from the Cederberg mountains on the west coast interior to the Baviaanskloof in the Eastern Cape. The largest plant kingdom is the Boreal, covering 40 per cent of Earth’s land surface in the northern hemisphere, and the Cape Floral Kingdom is the smallest, making up less than 0,04 per cent of the planet’s land surface. Yet, within just 41 000 square kilometres are 7 200 species of fynbos plants; two-thirds of these (about 5 000) are found nowhere else in the world. And at its epicentre lies Kogelberg Nature Reserve. ‘Kogelberg is the heart of the Cape Floral Kingdom,’ Mark said.
The highest percentage of occurrence (20 to 26 per cent) of those plants characteristic of fynbos – proteas, ericas, restios and brunias – is found in Kogelberg; this is twice the species density of the Cederberg and more than three times the density for the Southern Cape. It’s no surprise, then, that the reserve is part of a World Heritage Site which includes several other protected areas conserving fynbos. It’s also a Unesco Biosphere Reserve, the first of its kind in South Africa.
‘The diversity can overwhelm you at times. There are so many different species in so many different places,’ said Amida, standing on the stoep of their house, which looks up the beautiful and pristine Palmiet River Valley towards Kogelberg Peak.
Fittingly, the home of fynbos is also one of the most beautiful in the country. The mountainous landscape can seem daunting to all but the most determined of hikers, but it’s partly this rugged topography which has determined the high number of unique plants species. ‘Nowhere else in the country do you have mountains rising so sharply from the sea,’ Amida elaborated. ‘The peaks are separated by deep valleys, all with different aspects and soil types. These so-called “islands of isolation” have given rise to the high diversity of flora.’
Stylish and wild
The highest mountain is Kogelberg Peak at 1 260 metres, just a few kilometres from the pounding surf of the Atlantic Ocean. Up here, winter rainfall can measure 2 000 millimetres, fed by massive cold fronts that come hurtling across the ocean and smash into the barrier of mountains. All this water soaks into the marshes and bogs, releasing into the rivers at the bottom of steep valleys.
The Palmiet River, which Mark says is the last naturally functioning pristine river in the Western Cape, turns into a snorting monster during the rainy months between May and September. Hardcore kayakers come to brave the cold water to test their courage, while novices can be guided by local experts.
Kogelberg isn’t just for adventure seekers. Stylish accommodation at the base of the Palmiet River Valley is among the best of any reserve in the country. Each of the five new eco-cabins is built with huge glass doors and windows, so visitors can lie on the comfortable couches and still experience the views up the valley. CapeNature has done its utmost to ensure the design is in keeping with the reserve’s sense of place: the cabins were built with wood and stone and indigenous plants grow on the roofs. Water consumption is kept to a minimum with the use of dry toilets, which are essentially fancy long drops with fans to extract the odour.
As comfortable and stylish as the cabins are, Kogelberg is still a wild place. The area was closed to the public up until 1988, and permits were only rarely issued to botanists or researchers. Even TV Bulpin’s 1980 edition of Discovering Southern Africa – the bible of local travel – makes no mention of it. Clearly, very few people knew about Kogelberg.
‘It was the benchmark for mountain catchment management in the Western Cape,’ Mark explained. ‘The forestry department wanted to keep it as pristine as possible, so almost no-one was allowed in.’
Some people, however, couldn’t resist exploring it. Few folk alive today know the area as well as Peter Slingsby, a cartographer, historian and hiker who has produced detailed, informative maps on almost the entire Cape region and its mountains. He first visited the area in 1952 and subsequently returned countless times, sometimes dodging the forestry rangers who patrolled the mountains looking for intruders.
‘Kogelberg is a true wilderness,’ Peter said. ‘There has never been any exploitation of any kind – no plantations, no farming, no livestock and very little flower picking. It’s remarkably unchanged.’
And there’s a sense of adventure. ‘You’ll never forget a walk in Kogelberg. Unlike other mountains of the Cape, there are only a small number of hiking paths. It’s a hard place to get into, but it’s definitely worth the effort,’ Peter explained. ‘The views are just incredible; there aren’t many places in South Africa where you can stand on top of a mountain and look across the sea to more mountains.’
The best day hike is the circular Kogelberg Trail, a 24-kilometre route that starts near the reserve’s office and gives hikers the best views and opportunities to see a range of plants. It’s not overly strenuous, starting with a steep climb up through a forested kloof, before levelling out.
Hikers should be prepared though. ‘Being on top of these peaks in a winter storm is certainly a life-threatening experience,’ Peter cautioned.
On two occasions, Peter has spotted the rare Cape leopard. The first time, he came across one snoozing under a bush during the day. ‘It woke up and got the fright of its life before running away.’ The second was during a night of camping, while Peter was conducting an environmental education weekend. ‘The kids thought they had seen a large dog, so I went to have a look. There, staring at me down the path, was a fully grown leopard which disappeared into the darkness. Needless to say, the kids were excited.’
In the past, eland, buffalo, bontebok, elephant and black rhino would have occurred in the area, but they were shot out by colonial hunters. Today, leopards still roam here, albeit elusively. The Cape Leopard Trust has 13 camera traps spread across the area and several photos prove there are at least four leopards: one male and three females. ‘Fortunately, the locals are really proud of their leopards,’ researcher Jeannie Hayward explained. ‘And because there is no livestock farming here, there are far fewer snares or traps than, say, in the Karoo.’
Other rare animals include the montane marsh frog (found only in Kogelberg and one of its 14 frog species), a freshwater crab (found only here and in nearby Grabouw), the dwarf crag lizard (endemic to the region’s mountains), the Verreaux’s mouse (a pollinator of certain proteas and found only in the south-western Cape).
The Palmiet River is considered by entomologists to be a global hotspot for dragonflies, with more endemic species than any other in the country. ‘One could rank it as South Africa’s number one river system in terms of its irreplaceability,’ wrote researchers Paul Grant and Michael Samways. ‘The apparent absence of trout, the continual flow without overextraction and the lack (and removal) of alien trees and bushes are probably the main reasons for this.’
Kogelberg’s plants and animals, however, were almost lost in the early 1980s. The government was investigating the construction of a dam to supply more water to the city of Cape Town, and the Palmiet River Valley was considered seriously as a potential site. If constructed, the dam’s water would have inundated the entire valley. Fortunately, Kogelberg’s floral fame was well known by that stage and the dam was shown to be uneconomical in the long term. For now, this special place remains wild, diverse and mostly unchanged by humans.
‘My favourite impossible wish has always been to see the Cape before Van Riebeek arrived, before all the development in South Africa started,’ Peter Slingsby said. ‘Well, Kogelberg is a precious piece of the Cape as it was 1 000 years ago. Visiting this reserve is like being transported back in time.’
Kogelberg’s famous flowers
In addition to Mimetes stokoei, there are many rare, spectacular plant species found here. Be sure to stick to the designated hiking paths in the reserve as many plants are very sensitive to disturbance. Several species have roots which grow near to the soil’s surface; if the ground is trampled, the plants will die.
Many of these endangered species can be seen at the nearby Harold Porter Botanical Gardens.
Here is a selection taken from TP Stokoe – the man, the myths, the flowers by Amida Johns and Peter Slingsby.
1. Orothamnus Zeyheri (Marsh Rose)
This spectacularly red protea is unmistakeable. The flower grows on a long stem about eight feet high. Discovered in 1844, botanist Thomas Stokoe first saw it in 1921 after persuading flower sellers in Adderley Street to divulge its location. After seeing it, he wrote, ‘Partly smothered in the driving mist of a southeaster, they had a weird and eerie look, like ghostly plants from another era.’
2. Mimetes Hottentoticus
This plant makes a dazzling impression. It was discovered in 1922 by Stokoe, a few days before he discovered the golden protea. He wrote, ‘Its locality is no less dramatic. High on the upper slopes of the Kogelberg, Mimetes hottentoticus presides over the botanical treasure house of the fynbos.’
3. Sonderothamnus Petraeus
This gorgeous yet diminutive plant is part of the Penaeaceae family, the most remarkable of all the fynbos endemics. This species grows in rock crevices on sunny, steep slopes of the Kogelberg and in November it produces bright pink flowers at the tips of woody branches.
4. Brunia Stokoei
‘The Bruniaceae is a family of many bewildering guises and is an ancient endemic of the Cape flora,’ wrote Amida and Peter. Stokoe discovered this species in April 1922, his attention drawn to a conspicuous, tall shrub with clumps of flowers resembling large, bright red balls.
Travelling Planner
Getting there
Kogelberg Nature Reserve lies between the towns of Betty’s Bay and Kleinmond on the scenic R44 road. From Cape Town, drive along the N2 towards Sir Lowry’s Pass, but before ascending the pass, turn right to Gordon’s Bay. Continue to a T-junction, then turn left and follow the coastal road for about 44 kilometres through Betty’s Bay, until you see a sign to Kogelberg. Turn left onto a gravel road and continue for a few more kilometres until you see the main gate.
What to do
Visit the Harold Porter Botanical Gardens, set between the mountains and the coast in the town of Betty’s Bay. They rival the more famous Kirstenbosch for a dramatic setting and many of the rare, endangered plants from the area are cultivated here and can be easily admired by both young and old. The more energetic can explore Leopard’s Kloof and Disa Gorge, where waterfalls tumble down the southern slopes of the mountains. A restaurant supplies tasty meals and a good cup of coffee. Entrance is R18 an adult and R12 for students and people over 60. Tel 028-272-9311, www.sanbi.org.
Go white-water rafting or tubing on the Palmiet River with either Gravity Adventures (from R550 a person, tel 021-683-3698 email website or Forest Adventures (from R350 a person, cell 083-517- 3635 Email website
Check out the penguins. Kogelberg Nature Reserve also includes a small marine protected area managed by Cape-Nature and is off-limits to all fishing and exploitation. Along the coastline of Betty’s Bay, this small protected piece of the ocean is important for conservation of abalone, mussels, alikreukel and several species of fish. Most conspicuous are the hundreds of African penguins in a colony at Stony Point. ‘This is the largest shore-based penguin colony in the world,’ local bird guide Cuan McGeorge said. A boardwalk allows visitors to see them up close, as they nest on the shore. Costs R10 a person.
Take a guided bird tour of Kogelberg’s coastline with Cuan McGeorge, a former Zimbabwean Big Five wildlife guide. Notable species include Verreaux’s eagle, spotted eagle-owl, orange-breasted sunbird, protea canary, Cape siskin, Cape rockjumper and Victorin’s warbler. Along the coast, birders can spot marine birds such as the endangered bank cormorant, near-threatened African black oystercatcher and the Caspian tern. Prices vary according to customers’ requirements. Cell 072-220-5291.
Where to stay
CapeNature’s eco-cabins at Oudebosch just inside the reserve are a destination in their own right. Spectacularly positioned at the bottom of the Palmiet River Valley and well designed, they’re highly recommended. There are five cabins, each fully equipped for self-catering and consisting of two bedrooms, two bathrooms, kitchen, lounge, dining area and braai area. There is a pool (unfenced, so watch little kids) which is filtered naturally with stones and indigenous vegetation – listen out for the resident frogs.
Costs from R800 a night for two people (R250 for each additional person) to R1 600 a cabin a night during school and public holidays. There is also a once-off conservation fee of R40 an adult and R20 a child.
Useful resources
TP Stokoe – the man, the myths, the flowers by Amida Johns and Peter Slingsby (R195, from www.slingsbymaps.com) is an expertly researched book containing fascinating anecdotes, along with numerous illustrations and photographs. It tells the story of Thomas Stokoe, one of the Cape’s most respected botanists. He explored all the mountains in the Cape extensively and found about 130 plant species and one species of beetle new to science. Thirty of these – including the golden protea (Mimetes stokoei) – are named after him.
Also available for purchase are Peter Slingsby’s excellent maps of the Cape, including one on the Overberg, which includes part of Kogelberg. Poignantly, he has decided not to publish a detailed map of this reserve. ‘I’m not sure I want to encourage too many people to go there, he said. To order, call Peter on tel 021-788-4545 or visit their website.
Who to contact
CapeNature, tel 021-483-0190, email
More info on the town of Hermanus | More info on the Cape Overberg area |
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